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35m.

Rockfax Description
Climb up the awkward bottom wall to the break, then pull over a bulge and continue up a large chalked-up flake. (Stick-clip the second staple for the 7b+ tick if the bottom is wet). Move up to undercuts then rightwards to climb a short fingery section. Then head back left and up to the break. Continue up the pumpy groove above to a high lower-off (28m). When very dry you can do the start to Barely Decent and move right at 7b+ for the full route from the ground. Originally the upper section involved a swing around the hanging arete to the right to access the top of the crag - the E5 pitch that gave the route its name! © Rockfax

FFA. Ron Fawcett 1982. FA. Jeff Morgan, H.Mares (as the Prowler) 1970..

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+, Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, Classic UK F7s, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, Peak limestone north graded list - sport, 28 Decent Sport Routes, Definitive *** Peak Lime

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User Date Notes
Andy Farnell 14 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very soft 7b+ IMHO, possibly just hard 7b, as once you've got to the break the top section doesn't add any real difficulty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very soft 7b+ IMHO, possibly just hard 7b, as once you've got to the break the top section doesn't add any real difficulty.
stone elworthy 2 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: with the new bolts it now seems friendly going to the bodymachine belay -well worth doing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: with the new bolts it now seems friendly going to the bodymachine belay -well worth doing.
Alan James - UKC and UKH 8 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: 7b+ to the main belay. You don't place any extra gear and, although the fixed stuff is poor there is enough of it; no trad route thus far. Pitch 2 is different. Not sure about to the first break. I would still say baby 7b+. Feels a lot easier if you have done it loads of times but the crux sequence is difficult to read.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 7b+ to the main belay. You don't place any extra gear and, although the fixed stuff is poor there is enough of it; no trad route thus far. Pitch 2 is different. Not sure about to the first break. I would still say baby 7b+. Feels a lot easier if you have done it loads of times but the crux sequence is difficult to read.

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Sloe Gin

Grade: 7c ***
(Chee Dale Upper)