UKC

Climbs 70
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 297m a.s.l
Faces N

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Remigny © Simon

Crag features

A pleasant pocketed limestone crag (once a quarry) offering one pitch climbs up to 24m. There is a high concentration of easier grade climbs and it is especially good for those operating in the range of F4+ to F6b+ largely on off vertical walls. The two exceptions are the impressive over hanging Reggae Wall which offers half a dozen routes 7a+ to 8a all steep pocket pulling with the main attraction being Reggae Night 7b+/ 7c. The right wall of secteur du U ( furthest right sector when facing the crag) has a further half dozen superb steep routes around 6c /7a. The back wall of Secteur du U has three very good 4/5s. Between these? two sectors is the Grand Mur with its predominantly gentler offerings.

The sectors are listed from left to right, with the prominent corner of Souvenirs d'Enfance marking the end of Secteur Crackers and the start of Secteur Reggae Wall.

Guidebook: the Jingo-Wobbly guide does not include many of the easier routes, notably those on the Grand Mur, but there is a free local topo available in tourist info in Chagny.

Approach notes

According to the guidebook the access agreement for this crag - fairly recently negotiated after years of exclusion - precludes climbing after the second weekend in September until March. Please observe this restriction to help maintain access.

To reach the crag most will arrive in the small village of Remigny from Chagny. Turn left onto the Rue des Ecoles (signposted for the restaurant l'Escale). Immediately after crossing the bridge turn left opposite the restaurant onto a road by the canal. First right climbs a deteriorating road, tarmac at first then loose rock which climbs past a vineyard and eventually drops into the quarry. A painted wooden sign points towards the climbing.

Topo no longer available from the restaurant. Try the Office de Tourisme in Chagny.
Rog Wilko - 09/Jun/15
Beautiful climbing, easy to get to and if you dont want to buy the topo from the cafe for 3 Euros, all the climbs are written at the bottom of each route with the grade which makes finding the climbs very straight forward. If you are in the area I would definatly spend a day or two here
climbingchica - 27/Aug/13
An excellent venue the slabby walls are good in the sun and the two steep walls are always in the shade. Reggae wall has some very good 7's. Secteur du U over to the right is a bit chossy but has some good steep routes.
is2 - 21/Apr/12
This is a very pleasant venue. There are a lot of easier routes on the sensible side of vertical, many of good quality. Shady in the morning (and some shade most of the day).
Rog Wilko - 18/Oct/11
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Climbs at this crag

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