The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The arete of the slab is fine climb, delicate with an interesting and bold-feeling detour out left onto a hanging flange. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Crew early 1960s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , The V.S.+ Ticklist , Memorable Climbs , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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cragtyke | 17 Nov, 2023 |
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βeta: Small wire near the bottom of the flange will hold a fall! | ||
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βeta: Small wire near the bottom of the flange will hold a fall! |
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CharlieMack | 14 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Feels very go-ey for VS. The move to the flange isn't too bad, close to gear, but you'd need rps to protect the next (not too hard) moves to the break. Where good gear and holds lead to the top. 4c next to good gear, then 4a/b a long way above gear! | ||
Show beta
βeta: Feels very go-ey for VS. The move to the flange isn't too bad, close to gear, but you'd need rps to protect the next (not too hard) moves to the break. Where good gear and holds lead to the top. 4c next to good gear, then 4a/b a long way above gear! |
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cornishben | 18 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: offwidth crack?! the route follows the arete of the slab.. the 'underprotected' section can be protected with RP's | ||
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βeta: offwidth crack?! the route follows the arete of the slab.. the 'underprotected' section can be protected with RP's |
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shaun walby | 20 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Steeping out left at half height feels difficult. Poor gear in this section (crux)adds to a growing feeling of unease, the good news is if you dont fall off the middle bit,you wont fall of the top. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Steeping out left at half height feels difficult. Poor gear in this section (crux)adds to a growing feeling of unease, the good news is if you dont fall off the middle bit,you wont fall of the top. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Millstone Edge)