The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The wider crack of the pair (or both) just right of the main corner gives a couple of good fist-jamming moves to a steep dirty exit. The thin crack on its own is Short but Thick, HVS 5b. © Rockfax
FA. Oliver Woolcock 1963.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jessieleong | 5 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Route 16/16 - Mel lead - Actually not that bad and topped out with curlews and moonlight, perfect day out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Route 16/16 - Mel lead - Actually not that bad and topped out with curlews and moonlight, perfect day out. |
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JohnHutch | 20 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Very hard for 4b, even assuming you're following the guide book and doing the LEFT hand crack. Surely 4c | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very hard for 4b, even assuming you're following the guide book and doing the LEFT hand crack. Surely 4c |
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Dan-gerMouse | 15 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Agreed, as a competant HVS Leader, just the right hand crack would be way harder, nearer HVS 5b. Beware the wobbly block, not for hands, ok for feet! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agreed, as a competant HVS Leader, just the right hand crack would be way harder, nearer HVS 5b. Beware the wobbly block, not for hands, ok for feet! |
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GrahamD | 10 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: You would need to be pretty myopic to climb just the RH crack and it would be much harder than 4b. The Rockfax description differs from the definitive guide description of using the LH crack. | βeta? | |
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βeta: You would need to be pretty myopic to climb just the RH crack and it would be much harder than 4b. The Rockfax description differs from the definitive guide description of using the LH crack. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Burbage North)