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Climbs 134
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 253m a.s.l
Faces S

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Portnoy's Complaint © mark20

Crag features

Esoteric, and almost a gem, given more traffic to clean up the routes. Shrouded in trees, the cracks can be slow to dry but the more open climbs are surprisingly fast drying, and of course avoid the worst of the weather over the higher Peak edges. Best on windy days in Autumn and Spring when the leaves are off the trees. The path above and below the crag is improving and it is worth nipping over from the main crag to pick off a couple of the more popular routes which generally stay clean.

Recent developments have added to many worthwhile climbs here, but most of the quality lies in the extreme grades. Best routes are Impecacuanha Groove (HVS), Rhododendron Crack (E1), The Two Toms (E1), Portnoy's Complaint (E2 5b), Paddington (E4) Teddy Bear's Picnic (E4 6b), Feet Neet (E5), Flex (E5/6) and Earthboots (E6/7). The blank arete of That's My Lot (E8) is worth looking at and wondering how it is possible!

There is also worthwhile bouldering here. The Mini Beak and Happy Campus area is popular and accessible from the main crag, while a scattering of other problems further along the quarries are also worthwhile - Glom Onto (7A), Geisterspeil (7A) and Cold School Closure (7B/+) in particular.

Approach notes

Most will approach by traversing left from the left-hand end of Rivelin Edge, either on the path above the edge, or below. The first quarry is reached in a few mins.
Please be respectful of the residents of the nearby houses if climbing at the far left end of the crag.

Access Advice

The landowner (a tree surgeon with a vision of how this woodland should be managed), protested strongly to the BMC about damage to trees and erosion to footpaths around the crag. Climbers should avoid the area to the right of Altar Crack and respect its integrity as a conservation area. Any further damage to trees will result in the loss of all access for climbing.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Great crag and with several lines recently cleaned. Would really recommend a trip the routes we did were good and there were plenty of others to come back for too. Just need people to get out of the mentality that Stanage is the only place in the peak to climb and the routes would get enough traffic to not need any cleaning. Where is everyone's sense of adventure!
Calum Wadsworth - 20/Mar/15
This place is nowhere near as green as you might expect. There are some areas however which are covered in ghostbusters style ectoplasm. People need to realise there are more Peak guides than Eastern Grit!
peppermill - 29/Jan/10
I don't understand why this place is so neglected. Maybe its because the peak punters are spoilt. This has some really great routes that just need a bit of a clean up.
Mark S Davies - 17/Sep/09
Rivelin Quarries access Just to let you know that the Norfolk Arms pub has closed and sold and I believe will be made into a house so parking there for the Quarries is probably no longer a good idea.
Ropeboy - 05/Jan/08
Definitely NOT a summer venue. Wait for a dry spell during winter when the trees have died back a bit and go and sample some of the best routes on quarried grit.
Nik at work - 26/Feb/03
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Climbs at this crag

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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers dannyboy83 and mark20