Climbs 161
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 253m a.s.l
Faces S

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Portnoy's Complaint © mark20

Crag features

Esoteric, and almost a gem, given more traffic to clean up the routes. Shrouded in trees, the cracks can be slow to dry but the more open climbs are surprisingly fast drying, and of course avoid the worst of the weather over the higher Peak edges. Best on windy days in Autumn and Spring when the leaves are off the trees. The path above and below the crag is improving and it is worth nipping over from the main crag to pick off a couple of the more popular routes which generally stay clean.

Recent developments have added to many worthwhile climbs here, but most of the quality lies in the extreme grades. Best routes are Impecacuanha Groove (HVS), Rhododendron Crack (E1), The Two Toms (E1), Portnoy's Complaint (E2 5b), Paddington (E4) Teddy Bear's Picnic (E4 6b), Feet Neet (E5), Flex (E5/6) and Earthboots (E6/7). The blank arete of That's My Lot (E8) is worth looking at and wondering how it is possible!

There is also worthwhile bouldering here. The Mini Beak and Happy Campus area is popular and accessible from the main crag, while a scattering of other problems further along the quarries are also worthwhile - Glom Onto (7A), Geisterspeil (7A) and Cold School Closure (7B/+) in particular.

Approach notes

Most will approach by traversing left from the left-hand end of Rivelin Edge, either on the path above the edge, or below. The first quarry is reached in a few mins.
Please be respectful of the residents of the nearby houses if climbing at the far left end of the crag.

Was there today and we followed the path following the BMC guide towards what was the Norfolk Arms. The resisdents weren't happy we got close to there wall. We apologised but explained we followed the BMC guide. They let us go through their garden to get back onto the road but said that in future just return to the path to the natural edges.
rickeden - 05/Jan/24
Great crag and with several lines recently cleaned. Would really recommend a trip the routes we did were good and there were plenty of others to come back for too. Just need people to get out of the mentality that Stanage is the only place in the peak to climb and the routes would get enough traffic to not need any cleaning. Where is everyone's sense of adventure!
Calum Wadsworth - 20/Mar/15
This place is nowhere near as green as you might expect. There are some areas however which are covered in ghostbusters style ectoplasm. People need to realise there are more Peak guides than Eastern Grit!
peppermill - 29/Jan/10
I don't understand why this place is so neglected. Maybe its because the peak punters are spoilt. This has some really great routes that just need a bit of a clean up.
The Pylon King - 17/Sep/09
Rivelin Quarries access Just to let you know that the Norfolk Arms pub has closed and sold and I believe will be made into a house so parking there for the Quarries is probably no longer a good idea.
Ropeboy - 05/Jan/08
Definitely NOT a summer venue. Wait for a dry spell during winter when the trees have died back a bit and go and sample some of the best routes on quarried grit.
Nik at work - 26/Feb/03
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Climbs at this crag

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