UKC

28m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left arete of the buttress past holes to a ledge then trend right via a grassy ledge to the right-hand arete. Up this delicately (poor protection) then step left to finish up a short flake crack. Mild at the grade but with a serious section that requires a careful approach. © Rockfax

FA. Ivan Waller 1930.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Roaches HVS Challenge, CUMC First Ascents, The V.S.+ Ticklist, The Peak: Past and Present

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si dH 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The crux was definitely leaving the ledge for me, which had a reasonable-ish cam and a poor nut t oprotect it, probably ok overall. The smear up was ok, I dont think it was height dependent since my taller mate seemed ot find it harder than me (hes better than me and was seconding) plus I certainly didnt place any gear before doing the move - where is it? There is a good flat top to hold on to and a big foothold to aim for to step up on. Didnt think this was avery good rotue anyway - 1 star soft touch HVS. DD is absolutely miles better (and miles harder!)
βeta?
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βeta: The crux was definitely leaving the ledge for me, which had a reasonable-ish cam and a poor nut t oprotect it, probably ok overall. The smear up was ok, I dont think it was height dependent since my taller mate seemed ot find it harder than me (hes better than me and was seconding) plus I certainly didnt place any gear before doing the move - where is it? There is a good flat top to hold on to and a big foothold to aim for to step up on. Didnt think this was avery good rotue anyway - 1 star soft touch HVS. DD is absolutely miles better (and miles harder!)
Andrew Barker 20 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very green at this time of year, all the moves are fairly straightforward except for the crux which felt a little off balance (I'm 5'9 so to paraphrase - "I couldn't reach the holds so I had to use skill". Nice route though.
βeta?
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βeta: Very green at this time of year, all the moves are fairly straightforward except for the crux which felt a little off balance (I'm 5'9 so to paraphrase - "I couldn't reach the holds so I had to use skill". Nice route though.
Smelly Fox 10 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree. Theres a good piece to protect the crux if you reach up. Good effort without sticky rubber!
βeta?
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βeta: I agree. Theres a good piece to protect the crux if you reach up. Good effort without sticky rubber!
Offwidth 7 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Was I on a different route? The pro seemed good to me at every hard move except leaving the midway ledge (where it was adequate). The crux was the final hard 4c smears before easier climbing, which would be incredibly serious and much harder for short climbers who cant reach the easier holds or the nut placements. (I'm 5'10' BTW)
βeta?
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βeta: Was I on a different route? The pro seemed good to me at every hard move except leaving the midway ledge (where it was adequate). The crux was the final hard 4c smears before easier climbing, which would be incredibly serious and much harder for short climbers who cant reach the easier holds or the nut placements. (I'm 5'10' BTW)
Chris the Tall 3 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: OK I soloed this and didn't look around for the gear, but it felt very easy for the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: OK I soloed this and didn't look around for the gear, but it felt very easy for the grade.
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I climbed this with Al and he did it with a cool head, very modest about the gear it was unusual and quite ingenious! Considering how green it was, we wondered if it had been climbed since 1930?
βeta?
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βeta: I climbed this with Al and he did it with a cool head, very modest about the gear it was unusual and quite ingenious! Considering how green it was, we wondered if it had been climbed since 1930?
sutty 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: noticed the FA 1930, Waller had guts, no runners at all. I have turned back off it thinking it unjustifiable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: noticed the FA 1930, Waller had guts, no runners at all. I have turned back off it thinking it unjustifiable.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 40
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Crabbie's Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(The Five Clouds)
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