UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
The leaning corner (as for Elegy),and the awkward wide crack above, give an unsatisfying struggle. Bridge the lower section and swim up the final bit. Very graunchy. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans 1951.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Michelle's crack ticklist , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Roaches Cracks , Roaches 2024 Sends

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jon Greengrass 22 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: climbing out of the corner is the crux but well protected and succumbs to technique. the wide crack above is a joy but unprotected for quite some way unless you have a friend 5. much hilarity ensued when i realised i was going to have to get stuck right in, which was fine except for the realisation i was wearing a brand new down jacket, which I managed to remove while hanging out of the crack on a knee jam :o)
βeta?
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βeta: climbing out of the corner is the crux but well protected and succumbs to technique. the wide crack above is a joy but unprotected for quite some way unless you have a friend 5. much hilarity ensued when i realised i was going to have to get stuck right in, which was fine except for the realisation i was wearing a brand new down jacket, which I managed to remove while hanging out of the crack on a knee jam :o)
Duz Walker 21 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Orrible. Udgy, indelicate and (c.f guide) strangely unsatisfying.
βeta?
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βeta: Orrible. Udgy, indelicate and (c.f guide) strangely unsatisfying.
Duncan I 4 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If you don't climb at the Roaches much then this a is a good way to reacquant yourself with Staffordshire-style VS. It has all flavours of awkward but with good gear.
βeta?
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βeta: If you don't climb at the Roaches much then this a is a good way to reacquant yourself with Staffordshire-style VS. It has all flavours of awkward but with good gear.
Alex Thurgood 26 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: if you like pretending to be a whale this is a good climb for you.
βeta?
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βeta: if you like pretending to be a whale this is a good climb for you.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 77
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Climb

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Hen Cloud)

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