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20m.

Rockfax Description
20m. A classic piece of roof climbing, pumpy and bold though only a bit harder than The Sloth if you are strong. Climb the wall to a thread then traverse the flake to its end and make a couple of strenuous pulls on less generous holds to reach easy ground. Cams behind the creaky flakes in the roof are a bad idea. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Simpkins 1960.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E2 ticklist, 3 Star Graded, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The List, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
pep 1 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Found this lots harder than the sloth/FBD took me a few attempts to get the last jug!
βeta?
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βeta: Found this lots harder than the sloth/FBD took me a few attempts to get the last jug!
Pythonist 21 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Totally agree, Davros. This is the Sloth's big brother, and not all that much harder. Good juggy holds, just keeping going and you'll find something! Not sure how Flying Buttress Direct gets down-graded to HVS when it's not that much easier than Wombat!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Totally agree, Davros. This is the Sloth's big brother, and not all that much harder. Good juggy holds, just keeping going and you'll find something! Not sure how Flying Buttress Direct gets down-graded to HVS when it's not that much easier than Wombat!
Davros the Psyched 30 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Only slightly harder than the Sloth. Place gear from the break, have a breather then climbing the roof only takes 10 seconds.
βeta?
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βeta: Only slightly harder than the Sloth. Place gear from the break, have a breather then climbing the roof only takes 10 seconds.
mark s 14 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: no chance its a jug fest all the way
βeta?
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βeta: no chance its a jug fest all the way
Robo 13 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Whats this about a flake snapping off? Someone told me it's now E3/4...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Whats this about a flake snapping off? Someone told me it's now E3/4...

Logged Ascents

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Votes cast 80
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Original Route

Grade: E2 6a ***
(Newstones and Baldstones)