Rockfax Description
A classic piece of roof climbing, pumpy and bold though only a bit harder than The Sloth if you are strong. Climb the wall to a thread then traverse the flake to its end and make a couple of strenuous pulls on less generous holds to reach easy ground. Cams behind the creaky flakes in the roof are a bad idea. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Simpkins 1960.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E2 ticklist , 3 Star Graded , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The List , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Climbs With Animal Names , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Joel Sims | 26 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: If you can do FBD, this should be manageable as long as you don't faff. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you can do FBD, this should be manageable as long as you don't faff. |
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| Daniel Grout | 18 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Creaky creaky | βeta? | |
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βeta: Creaky creaky |
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| pep | 1 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: Found this lots harder than the sloth/FBD took me a few attempts to get the last jug! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found this lots harder than the sloth/FBD took me a few attempts to get the last jug! |
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| Pythonist | 21 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Totally agree, Davros. This is the Sloth's big brother, and not all that much harder. Good juggy holds, just keeping going and you'll find something! Not sure how Flying Buttress Direct gets down-graded to HVS when it's not that much easier than Wombat! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Totally agree, Davros. This is the Sloth's big brother, and not all that much harder. Good juggy holds, just keeping going and you'll find something! Not sure how Flying Buttress Direct gets down-graded to HVS when it's not that much easier than Wombat! |
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| Davros the Psyched | 30 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: Only slightly harder than the Sloth. Place gear from the break, have a breather then climbing the roof only takes 10 seconds. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Only slightly harder than the Sloth. Place gear from the break, have a breather then climbing the roof only takes 10 seconds. |
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| mark s | 14 Jul, 2002 |
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βeta: no chance its a jug fest all the way | βeta? | |
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βeta: no chance its a jug fest all the way |
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| Robo | 13 Jul, 2002 |
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βeta: Whats this about a flake snapping off? Someone told me it's now E3/4... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Whats this about a flake snapping off? Someone told me it's now E3/4... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Upper Tier
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Jewel of Corruption
Grade: E2 5b ***
(The Hanging Stone)