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Climbs 10
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 22m a.s.l
Faces NW

Crag features

This is a crazy impressive NW-facing wall of slate that's been quarried away to form a giant Z-shaped gash across the entire width of a small hill.

The quarry was last used in the 1871. It would appear that the large blocks of slate were either prised out from the walls to be worked, or were dumped into the ravine after the work ceased in the quarry. Certainly, the large cracked boulder looks like it was purposefully been seperated from the main wall, perhaps by a giant crow bar... :). Other than that, there has been very little, if any. movement from the rocks in the past 30 years. 

The 'floor' of the gash at the west end is made up of smaller bits of slate and is OK. While the eastern end has much larger blocks, and requires some care to move across them. Watch your footing!

The whole thing is cordoned off behind a fence with 'DANGER - Keep out' signs so you cannot say you were not warned. Perhaps the 'Danger' refers to the midges.

Lowland Outcrops grid ref is wrong but description is correct that it's on the second headland beyond Sallochy car park. The guidebook suggests approaching the east, which is most certaintly easier than accessing from the west. Once arriving at the quarry you can either move across the stones or go around it.

On the main face, opposite the fallen block, there is clear evidence of rusting bolt lines and a few pegs but they are all super-rusted and definitely not viable protection. It won't get any sun and could be quite wet in winter.

There are trees growing on the top of the hill which will serve as belay points.

The eastern end has an impressive overhanging wall with potential for short powerful boudlering routes. The wall quickly rises to become immensively impressive but for the most part blank. However, potential exists for a few routes. The climbs that do exist are close by the fallen block. The fallen block is itself a fun thing to explore, take a torch and you will find you can go quite deep into it... Watch out for bears..


Approach notes

Park at Sallochy Bay car park, and walk north along the West Highland Way round the shoreline to the University of Glasgow boat house.

Just after the jetty stay left along the shoreline (no longer the WHW) and pass the first promentary. The path dips then rises again and at the next corner, leave the track here and walk directly south through woods round the west (RHS) side of the first small hill with Conifers on top. 

There is no path at this point - just follow your nose. You will not see anything until you get round the first hill (or are on top of it) when you will see the crag facing you on the next hill nearer the water. Head towards the west (RHS) end.

You will have to climb the wire fence and ignore the 'Danger No Entry' signs.

Approach the Crag from the west end and you will arrive immediately at the large cracked block and the routes listed.

Move round the corner and you are into the main 'gash' which gets more and more sketch underfoot at you head east.

Access Advice

This crag is a disused quarry and is fence off with a 4ft high wire fence and 'Danger, No Entry' Signs.

You will have to climb the fence and ignore the signs to get access.

You will clearly be accepting all responsibility for your safety at this point.

The 'floor' of the gash at the west end is fairly solid, but as you move round and along the gash it gets more and more precarious, ending up scrambling over (or under!) large car-sized blocks of slate piled up along the bottom. The facing slate wall is very loose with lots of flakes just waiting to fall off.

Do not bring dogs, small children, or people of a nervous disposition.

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