UKC

Climbs 107
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 35m a.s.l
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Crag features

A collection of small buttresses of generally good quality sandstone spread around Runcorn Heath - also known as Runcorn Hills.

The buttresses can take a bit of finding on first acquaintance but the new cafe/ice cream parlour on Highlands Road (large car park but closes at 6 pm!) makes things a bit easier. From the cafe (a great place to meet your mates or imbibe refreshments!) the Park Life Buttress with it's recently unearthed right hand slab is visible on the right. From  Park Life you can see the bandstand with the Sculpture and Bandstand walls opposite. From the cafe take the path down into the wood via steps. Keep right then left to a junction with three footpath marker posts. Turn right for the Local Climb Buttress immediately visible up on the left. The Senseless Seam Buttress is 50 yards further on up on the left. For the Iron Cart area turn left for @ 200 yards. For the Square Hole Buttress follow path up and over bridge from the Iron Cart - buttress is on R at the back of a large grassy area 200 yards on. The Reservoir Cutting is another 200 yards further on towards the main quarry. Turn R through the cutting and back to the cafe. All the climbing can be accessed from the same car park as Frogsmouth Quarry - Sculpture Wall is directly below. Walk along path to Trig point. Local Climb Buttress is 200 yards further on below path. Pylon on R with Square Hole Buttress below. Iron Cart area is 200 yards further on. 

The best bouldering is undoubtedly on the Iron Cart Right hand Slab with its sweep of good, clean rock while the R hand end of the slab - Undercover, Sculpture Wall and Local Climb Buttress offer slightly overhanging (often dry) sport on good rock that might appeal to climbing wall fans! The Sculpture Wall lies within a formal park and, while the Council is OK about climbing, they ask that bushes and trees below the climbs not be damaged.

There are several buttresses scattered throughout the woods which are currently being developed with the aim - together with the rehabilitation of the existing buttresses - of creating a bouldering circuit. Fontainbleau it ain't but it's a pleasant venue and easy to get to from the new Mersey bridge. Martin Mulvey originally set up this page and named the routes but recently Andy Popp and Simon Huthwaite provided details of several ascents that predate Martin's so the names have been changed. Sorry, Martin! The recent development was undertaken by Pete Trewin, ably assisted by Cameron Bromley, Neil Griffiths and Adam Crook - Beau Constance has recently picked up the torch, most notably with a challenging testpiece on Square Hole Buttress Too Wet for Pex V9.

Approach notes

Easily accessible from Runcorn Train station (10 minute walk, if that) and from any Halton Transport bus.

Mark Hounslea, local BMC rep has discussed access with Halton Council. They are OK about climbing but, as the Sculpture Buttress lies within a formal park, they ask that vegetation not be removed without asking them first (best done via moderator).
Pekkie - 03/Dec/19
Legs are bitten to death from standing in the abundance of flora.
Removed User - 09/Aug/13
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Climbs at this crag

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