Climbs 72
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces W
Luke Owens - Green Bean - 6b+ © Luke Owens
Crag features
Two tiers of generally sound quality limestone, averaging about 10m in height.
For Quarry Wall:
Its situated on the right-hand side of the road if you approach from ruthin and is a couple of hundred yards from the pwll glas sign at the beginning of the village. The crag although one of the most roadside venues in the area does require a 10 min walk due to where you need to park. this should be either the large laybe on the left handside in the village itself or just the otherside of the bridge which leads to Llanfair dc.
Approach notes
Take the A494 from Ruthin south towards Bala for about 3 miles until you reach Pwllglas at a large lay-by on the left hand side. Park here and walk back towards Ruthin for about 100m to a turning on
the right. Follow this lane, passing a renovated mill, over an old railway bridge and past several houses until the road ends and a public footpath crosses the road, take the footpath on the right. When the footpath forks, take the path on the right until the escarpment can be seen on the left.
Please do not drive the car up the road, as parking there will cause annoyance to the owners of the houses, and thus potentially cause access problems.
No Access Issues
The whole escarpment is within an SSSI (Coed Adwy Gwynt SSSI) and there have been issues of vegetation clearance and rock modification which have concerned both the owners and the Natural Rescources for Wales. The original documented climbing is on the northern buttresses and is privately owned. The landowners of the northern buttresses have been concerned regarding liability as they were informed by thier insurers that they cannot allow climbing on this land. The BMC and the landowners have agreed that climbing can continue here but strictly on the basis that all climbers willingly accept the risks involved with climbing and that no new routes or bolting take palce.
Some more recent developments are on the southern buttress and are on a nature reserve owned and managed by the Butterfly Conservation Trust. Similar issues exist here and climbing only takes place strictly at your own risk and no new bolting or vegetation clearance should take place.
The owners and NRW have stated that there should not be any further vegetation clearance, tree felling or changes to the rock (such as removal of loose rock or clearing blocks from the base) without permission.
| Anyone know if the Ivy can be removed from the list wall? Ian Ford - 14/Sep/22 |
|
| Topo for bouldering at Butterfly wall can be found here...
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=550 Mark Riley - 25/Jan/12 |
|
| Checked out the new bouldering with Mill today. Quality rock and problems. Psyched for getting back! Luke Owens - 23/Jan/12 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Luke Owens and dropkneesnotbombs