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Climbs 112
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

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Cardiff University Mountaineering Club enjoying the thrills of sea cliff climbing in Pembrokeshire © Huw Mithan

Crag features

Saddle Head is one of the most popular locations in Pembroke because it contains the largest concentration of D to VS routes and many of them are classic sea cliff outings. Most of the routes follow short corners and walls above an accessible non-tidal platform and four of the routes listed here take wonderful long lines up the tall tidal buttress to the left of the platform.

Approach notes

Park at St Govans and walk west past Huntsman's Leap and Bosherston Head. Approach by abseil or long walk round.

DO NOT belay on the fence of the radar installation at the top of the cliff. You and everyone else may be banned from the site: the Army takes this seriously.

Restricted Access

Please do not belay to the radar station fence or fence posts - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
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Climbs at this crag

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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers dannyboy83 and Luke90