Climbs 115
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

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Cardiff University Mountaineering Club enjoying the thrills of sea cliff climbing in Pembrokeshire © Huw Mithan

Crag features

Saddle Head is one of the most popular locations in Pembroke because it contains the largest concentration of D to VS routes and many of them are classic sea cliff outings. Most of the routes follow short corners and walls above an accessible non-tidal platform and four of the routes listed here take wonderful long lines up the tall tidal buttress to the left of the platform.

Approach notes

Park at St Govans and walk west past Huntsman's Leap and Bosherston Head. Approach by abseil or long walk round.

DO NOT belay on the fence of the radar installation at the top of the cliff. You and everyone else may be banned from the site: the Army takes this seriously.

Restricted Access

Please do not belay to the radar station fence or fence posts - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.

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Climbs at this crag

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