Climbs 123
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W
Cardiff University Mountaineering Club enjoying the thrills of sea cliff climbing in Pembrokeshire © Huw Mithan
Crag features
Saddle Head is one of the most popular locations in Pembroke because it contains the largest concentration of D to VS routes and many of them are classic sea cliff outings. Most of the routes follow short corners and walls above an accessible non-tidal platform and four of the routes listed here take wonderful long lines up the tall tidal buttress to the left of the platform.
Approach notes
Park at St Govans and walk west past Huntsman's Leap and Bosherston Head. Approach by abseil or long walk round.
DO NOT belay on the fence of the radar installation at the top of the cliff. You and everyone else may be banned from the site: the Army takes this seriously.
Restricted Access
Please do not belay to the radar station fence, fence posts or any MoD installations - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. There are natural anchors and stakes where needed. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers dannyboy83 and Luke90