UKC

Climbs 400
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 429m a.s.l
Faces SE

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David on La Directissime © nick simons

Crag features

A long established crag, Saffres is situated in beautiful countryside between Avallon and Dijon and is well worth a visit. Being an older crag, the bolting varies considerably between the climbs with many having very high or difficult first bolts and/or considerable runouts over "easy" ground. In general, the crux sections are well protected but a set of small to medium cams to protect the longer sections are very useful. You may even want to take a clip stick or boulder mat for some of the high first bolts.


There is a guidebook available locally priced 15 Euros, the Tabac in Vitteaux sells it as does the camp site at Vitteaux. The grades in the book seem to be based on how the climbs were many years ago and can be tough as the rock can be difficult to read and some of the climbs are polished or have broken holds. In general, if you add a grade e.g. 5C is 6A then you stand a reasonable chance of onsighting a route, but even then some of the 6As can seem harder than 6Cs elsewhere locally.


Having said this there are many super climbs at Saffres, it's just to warn you that you may not come back with a long list of high route grades to impress your mates! Some sectors are restricted due to perergrine falcons nesting (Feb - June). 


There is good car parking at the base of the crag (5 minutes walk) and a free "air naturelle de camping". This consists of a grassy area with bbq and picnic benches with flattish areas for a few tents. The toilet and sink down the track no longer work, so if you need to get water you'll have to look elsewhere (March, 2022). Le Vitteaux about 5km away has a nice campsite as well as supermarket, Tabac, Cafes etc.

Access Banned

The whole crag is currently closed off with notices informing you of this.  Apparently there is a dispute over land access which is anticipated being resolved in March 2023.

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