Altitude 57m a.s.l
Take the Spaniard © PeteH
Multiple climbing areas on separate cliffs surrounding the Cabo de São Vicente, the most southwestern point in mainland Europe. The area includes stunning cliffs like The Mirror (sport routes from 6a to 7a+, and good trad lines) and the conveniently-accessed Armação Nova (well-bolted sport from 6a to 7c on a constant 25-degree overhang) and Foz de Fornos. If you want to give your core a treat, Corgas is the right choice, a steep overhanging wall with Portugal's first 9a.
Being a maritime area, there is always the risk of corrosion. Nevertheless, most routes are in quality steel (A4). Please do not equip more routes - instead contribute to the rebolting of existing routes with titanium bolts.
Head out of Sagres along the main road towards Cabo de São Vicente/Praia de Beliche.
Armação Nova - park at the first white stone pillar (not the metal electricity box) on the right after the Fortaleza do Beliche. Walk down the dirt road to the right until you reach the cliff-top overlooking the steep walls of Parede Grande and Parede Pequena.
Corgas - park at the first white stone pillar (not the metal electricity box) on the right after the Fortaleza do Beliche. Head left and follow a sandy road/path for 20mins. Walk along the cliffs until you find the stone piles or you can see a steep sector with a spikey base. Either rapel from the rapel point or use the fisherman's scramble. The attached ropes are in a very bad state and hanging on them should be avoided.
The Mirror - continue along the main road to Cabo de São Vicente to park at a graffiti-covered small building on the right and a rectangular parking spot. Head for north for about 200m along the dirt road until you can see an island just off the coast. Head towards this, and you should be on a cliff-top with a good view of The Mirror to your right.
Foz de Fornos - continue along the main road to Cabo de São Vicente to park at a graffiti-covered small building on the right and a rectangular parking spot. Walk toward the southeast and down a small valley. First you will find the slabs on the left with relatively easy routes. Continue down the path down to the shore and you will find some vertical face climbs to the right, above the water.
Parede das Riscas - park at the large car park for the Fortaleza do Beliche. Walk south to gain the top of the crag.
|Foz dos fornos sector some routes have signs saying do not climb with the bolts being chopped.
Tommy Gunn - 25/Nov/18
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