Start at the base of the pillar on a small ledge about 2m above the water. Tackle a f7C+ boulder problem over a small roof and onto the overhanging face to reach some slightly better holds. Continue for about 15 more moves using a series of pinches, pockets and the odd tufa before moving right into the barrel of the gun. Take on a huge dynamic lunge from two undercuts to a large and hard-to-stick pocket. From the pocket, continue rightwards via a series of edges leading to the arete on the landward side of the arch. Follow some small sloping holds on the arete until you reach the central point of the arch. Power on to the top. © Rockfax
Chris Sharma 26/Sep/2007.
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