The classic route on the south side of Sass Pordoi. An excellent route at the grade. Don't be put off by the super-polished first move off the ground! Take your time with it or, if all else fails, stand on your friend's shoulders. The climbing is easier above and the final mantelshelf over the cable car wall provides an interesting finish.
Start in a chimney-gully directly below the right corner of the roof by a leaning yellow pillar on the right.
1) IV, 20m. Climb the chimney-gully which has a very polished start, particularly for the feet (slightly less polished alternative on grey rock to the left). Continue to a good stance - be careful you don't dislodge stones onto climbers below.
2) IV+, 40m. Climb direct then follow a crack on good holds to reach the face, and climb this towards a large ledge above.
3) IV, 45m. Climb the orange crack above the belay direct on slightly friable rock for 5m then move left. Cut back right following some ramps and passing an intermediate stance. Continue right, following the natural ramp of the rock to a stance below the right edge of the roof.
4) IV, 10m. Move up and right around the edge of the roof then make a short traverse right. Step up to a stance in a small niche round the corner, left of the gully which separates the subsidiary and main towers.
5) III, 50m. Traverse easily rightwards following the ledge then climb the wall to the left of the gully. Cut across easily on loose rock to a block/pillar on the right of the gully, next to the main wall. Belay on a thread. The Piaz Arete joins here.
6) IV, 35m. Step over from the block to the right wall then traverse right past a cemented ring. Follow polished yet good rock right, making a rising traverse on good holds. Pull through a little niche to a good ledge.
7) IV, 25m. Go up 15m until a ledge and find the two good threads 10m to the left, 6m right of a chimney.
8) IV, 25m. Move right to climb a chimney direct to reach the plateau with a large cemented peg.
9) 100m, III. Move left of the tower in front to a thread belay below a chimney. Either climb the chimney (harder at IV-), or traverse left for 5m to a black water-worn section of rock and climb this easily to a bowl on the left side of the cable car station. Follow this up right onto a choosy ridge, following wire from the cable car station, then keep right to reach the station itself. It is possible to finish either to the left or the right of the cable car station (you have to climb over the wall in either case). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A popular classic with mostlty in-situ belays. Very exposed, but finshes at the refuge/lift station
Piaz & Dezulian.