Climbs 165
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 310m a.s.l
Faces W
November Sun © David Stevens
Crag features
The right hand extension of a pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height; for the competent a rope is rarely necessary. Because of the lack of height, many routes only receive a technical grade, offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Quieter and more secluded than Scots Crag.
Recommended: Fairy Tale Low 6c, Super Skunk, Fallen Arch 5a, Black Wall Traverse 6b, New Dimensions E3 6a, Grandmaster Flash E5 6b,
Approach notes
No dogs - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.
No Access Issues
With convenient access and quality climbing, Scugdale is understandably a very popular venue. The route heights are such that many climbers solo while others prefer the security of a rope.
Scots Crag is the first encountered from the parking beneath the crags. It is continuous and easily navigated from below. Ingenuity is required in arranging belays for some of the routes. Its popuarity has resulted in wear on the soft sandstone which should be treat with care when damp.
Barker's is across a stile and to the right. It is far less frequented and consequently less worn. It is less continuous than Scots and more challenging to navigate as the butresses are best accessed from above and not always obvious.
Stoney Wickes is a compact venue further right. It is not as high as the other Scugdale crags but provides some excellent bouldering.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
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