Climbs 29
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 310m a.s.l
Faces SE
Stoney Wicks Crag © Pete Pozman
No Access Issues
With convenient access and quality climbing, Scugdale is understandably a very popular venue. The route heights are such that many climbers solo while others prefer the security of a rope.
Scots Crag is the first encountered from the parking beneath the crags. It is continuous and easily navigated from below. Ingenuity is required in arranging belays for some of the routes. Its popuarity has resulted in wear on the soft sandstone which should be treat with care when damp.
Barker's is across a stile and to the right. It is far less frequented and consequently less worn. It is less continuous than Scots and more challenging to navigate as the butresses are best accessed from above and not always obvious.
Stoney Wickes is a compact venue further right. It is not as high as the other Scugdale crags but provides some excellent bouldering.
| Popped up today after years of not visiting. Had my kids with me and wanted to avoid people due to the Covid-19 situation.
The rock is generally excellent as are the landings (a little slopey). The grades are all over the place however, the old Climbing in NE England has them as trad (before the bouldering revolution) as does UKC....bottom line, they aren’t trad routes. However the NY Moors and E Coast Bouldering guidebook has them graded as ‘Font’, correct IMHO but the grades given bare little relation to the actual problems. My guess is that they simply equated the old grades across to Font grades with no checking. An example being ‘Pick Pocket’, if you follow the topo and avoid the crack (as per the description) then the problem is about F4...not F2.
None of the problems are outrageously hard but many are under graded, take the guidebook grade with a healthy pinch of salt. Zoomer - 29/May/20 |
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| Lovely little location to play around. The guide is only of nominal help as the routes are all of a similar grade and all close to each other. You can try different eliminates and variations. Rampikino - 07/Apr/08 |
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| A nice place to spend an hour or two soloing if you are short of a partner. Rarely higher than 3m and good landings. The rock is harder and rougher than the rest of Scugdale to the point that it almost feels like grit. Best problems are Sepulchre, Sobersides and Y-Crack. waps100 - 14/Jan/07 |
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| Start on the left climb every line to end of the crag. Some good problems. No guide needed. IanJackson - 14/Dec/06 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
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