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Climbing banned in Spain

Due to the ongoing spread of Coronavirus, Spain has banned all climbing. Continuing to do so not only puts people at risk, but can also put more strain on emergency workers. Please do not climb here.

Lamoncloa (Spanish Government) link with more info

Rockfax Description
Straight up from the start of La hora de Millau. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up La Hora, then crimp up the wall above.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Nick Sherring 8 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: maybe worth someone in the know logging the different versions of this, apparently there are 3 depending what you use / don't use at 3 different grades. Using the big flake for a rest half way seems a bit pointless, but use of the left arete at the top is more debatable, it would be very eliminate to totally avoid this
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: maybe worth someone in the know logging the different versions of this, apparently there are 3 depending what you use / don't use at 3 different grades. Using the big flake for a rest half way seems a bit pointless, but use of the left arete at the top is more debatable, it would be very eliminate to totally avoid this
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Nick Sherring 7 Dec, 2019 Lead dog just a play for a day. Did all the moves 2nd burn, would need plenty more fitness though! Used left arete at top section for a few left hand moves - somebody was saying this is 7c+ version, not really clear. A pretty tough, long and thin move without.
with Maynard
just a play for a day. Did all the moves 2nd burn, would need plenty more fitness though! Used left arete at top section for a few left hand moves - somebody was saying this is 7c+ version, not really clear. A pretty tough, long and thin move without.
with Maynard
emma1987 22 Nov, 2019 Lead RP Session one - just top roped, bottom felt super hard - learn how to climb tufas. Session two - worked the bottom half and did all of the moves for the whole route. Still just bolt to bolt. Session three - did the bottom in one - super chuffed. Worked out better beta for the top - actually feel like I can do it now. Session four - lead to top, all moves sorted, went from crux to top and new high point each time Session five - dropped the last move of the crux - I can definitely do it - rest for the rest of today and hopefully go tomorrow Session six - conditions sucked ass Session seven - four days on, only the morning before we had to fly home - had four goes, first go I got a new high point, second go it was too hot and pinged off, third go fell off at two finger crimp. Last go - fell off going to top of side pull - was just too tired to hold on but did go to the top with just one fall which I hadn’t done before Returned, put draws in, one redpoint then it was dark. Did it as the warm up the next day :)
with John L, lukey13
Session one - just top roped, bottom felt super hard - learn how to climb tufas. Session two - worked the bottom half and did all of the moves for the whole route. Still just bolt to bolt. Session three - did the bottom in one - super chuffed. Worked out better beta for the top - actually feel like I can do it now. Session four - lead to top, all moves sorted, went from crux to top and new high point each time Session five - dropped the last move of the crux - I can definitely do it - rest for the rest of today and hopefully go tomorrow Session six - conditions sucked ass Session seven - four days on, only the morning before we had to fly home - had four goes, first go I got a new high point, second go it was too hot and pinged off, third go fell off at two finger crimp. Last go - fell off going to top of side pull - was just too tired to hold on but did go to the top with just one fall which I hadn’t done before Returned, put draws in, one redpoint then it was dark. Did it as the warm up the next day :)
with John L, lukey13
Hidden 15 Aug, 2019 Lead RP
Hidden 8 Aug, 2019 Lead RP
Simon Davis 8 Dec, 2018 Lead RP 7c version.
7c version.
Toby Dunn 24 May, 2016 Lead RP 1 working go, first redpoint.
with Eric Hildrew
1 working go, first redpoint.
with Eric Hildrew
samwillo 8 Jan, 2016 Lead 2nd go, thought I was off basically every move. Almost fell off clipping the chains, dropped the rope! Did the 8a direct which is the proper line..
2nd go, thought I was off basically every move. Almost fell off clipping the chains, dropped the rope! Did the 8a direct which is the proper line..
Ally Smith 13 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
nathanlee 25 Nov, 2014 Lead β Like being back in chulilla! 7cish
Like being back in chulilla! 7cish
dominic lee 25 Nov, 2014 Lead RP 2nd go.
2nd go.
keefe 23 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S Ok -I had done the first 4 bolts worth on Hola de Millau 3 years ago - so not strictly on sight, but I'm having it.
Ok -I had done the first 4 bolts worth on Hola de Millau 3 years ago - so not strictly on sight, but I'm having it.
Wendy 9 Oct, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 6 Apr, 2013 TR dog
Hidden 19 Feb, 2013 TR dog
Hidden 18 Feb, 2013 TR dog
Stuart S 28 Oct, 2012 TR dog Meant to have a play on El Hora, but put the top-rope on the wrong line.
with lyons
Meant to have a play on El Hora, but put the top-rope on the wrong line.
with lyons
Hidden 28 Oct, 2012 TR dnf
lx 2 Dec, 2011 Lead O/S Awesome face climbing up the overhanging wall on good edges. Told 7c+/8a by locals. Called la putita de milau apparently
with dafrob
Awesome face climbing up the overhanging wall on good edges. Told 7c+/8a by locals. Called la putita de milau apparently
with dafrob
James Marshall ? May, 2010 Lead RP
with Tom Ball
with Tom Ball
7 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Ergometría

Grade: 8a ***
(Sella)