Rockfax Description
This modern bolted route follows the first three pitches of the old Via Bruno Bertoldi. It offers elegant climbing up some lovely slabs. The route is well equipped on the harder sections, though it is only sparsely bolted on the easier pitches. A small rack is recommended.
Start below the grey rocks at the base of the right side of the face, and ascend a grassy ramp towards the prominent Trenker Crack to reach a peg by a niche.
1) 4+, 2) 6b, 3) 6a, 4) 6a, 5) 6a, 6) 6a.
FA (First 3 pitches). Callegarin, Filippi, Lucchetta, Prandini 1977
FA (Rest of the route) Galvagni, Maceri 2002 © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| cindylmy | 18 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The p3 beta from others below was so valuable in route finding. P5 trends right from the start and then traverses until you get to a small ledge. Either an alpine draw/ twin ropes is required or you can come back and unclip from the ledge after clipping the next bolt which is a traverse to your left else there will be a lot of rope drag. Head upwards and the belay ledge is little to the right of the start. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The p3 beta from others below was so valuable in route finding. P5 trends right from the start and then traverses until you get to a small ledge. Either an alpine draw/ twin ropes is required or you can come back and unclip from the ledge after clipping the next bolt which is a traverse to your left else there will be a lot of rope drag. Head upwards and the belay ledge is little to the right of the start. |
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| Alex Eperon | 26 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitches 2-6 are quite short (25-30m), possible to do 2+3 and 4+5 as single pitches for the strong. No real need for double ropes, a single 70 is fine. Follow the bolts, not your instinct, to avoid getting lost. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Pitches 2-6 are quite short (25-30m), possible to do 2+3 and 4+5 as single pitches for the strong. No real need for double ropes, a single 70 is fine. Follow the bolts, not your instinct, to avoid getting lost. |
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| dinodinosaur | 20 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route! Third pitch is correct as below feedback, to further aid route finding, from the piton climb directly up to a groove that leans right, the belay is on a ledge on top of a pinnacle of grey rock that forms the groove. The bolt in question (I missed it) is on the orange wall to the left of the groove. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Amazing route! Third pitch is correct as below feedback, to further aid route finding, from the piton climb directly up to a groove that leans right, the belay is on a ledge on top of a pinnacle of grey rock that forms the groove. The bolt in question (I missed it) is on the orange wall to the left of the groove. |
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| Ciaranunderscoretolan | 7 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: first pitch is very poorly bolted on the choss-pile at the bottom. second pitch amazing face climbing, would be pumpy with a heavier back pack on, hardest pitch but accurate for the grade third pitch easy to get lost - climb juggy holds to a ledge on right, clip into piton on ledge then climb a 6m runout diagonally up to the right to a good bolt and then belay ledge. Do not go left after the piton!! fourth pitch is easy climbing on spaced bolts 5th pitch is the most exposed but possibly the best pitch of climbing on the route, very windy so use half ropes on this pitch for sure. last pitch has a slightly bolder start than other pitches but is steady climbing and a great view at the top also don't bother with trad rack unless you're really unsure, very few gear placements and will likely only weigh you down. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: first pitch is very poorly bolted on the choss-pile at the bottom. second pitch amazing face climbing, would be pumpy with a heavier back pack on, hardest pitch but accurate for the grade third pitch easy to get lost - climb juggy holds to a ledge on right, clip into piton on ledge then climb a 6m runout diagonally up to the right to a good bolt and then belay ledge. Do not go left after the piton!! fourth pitch is easy climbing on spaced bolts 5th pitch is the most exposed but possibly the best pitch of climbing on the route, very windy so use half ropes on this pitch for sure. last pitch has a slightly bolder start than other pitches but is steady climbing and a great view at the top also don't bother with trad rack unless you're really unsure, very few gear placements and will likely only weigh you down. |
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