Restricted Access
The Gorge is currently out of bounds officially since storm Vaia in October 2018 destroyed the road through the gorge. You can gain access from Malga Ciapela but this is neither legal nor without danger.
The Sottoguda gorge is easily accessible. From Belluno drive up the Cordevole valley past Agordo, Alleghe and Caprile and continue as for Passo Fedaia. Before reaching Malga Ciapela turn off the main road and enter into Sottoguda. Drive through this village to where the road ends at the beginning of the gorge. Continue on foot to arrive swiftly at the base of the first waterfalls.
80m, 3 pitches.
This is the first major ice fall of the gorge situated on its north side. It is exposed to the sun during at least part of the day after the middle of February so an early start is advisable. Cross the river and climb easily up into a cave on the left - beware falling ice as during the heat of the day stalactites often let lose and this is a natural funnel. There is a bolted belay here. Climb up and right onto the front of the pillar and surmount this to a slight step. Here you can make another belay on a bolted stance out to the right, or you can continue up and then left to a peg belay in a cave. The last section is a thin pillar to a bolted stance at the top. From here, either abseil to the base or continue easily and gain a path with leads back to the entrance of the gorge.
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Route of Interest
Vernel Gully
Grade: WI-4 ***
(Marmolada)