Rockfax Description
One of a trio of brilliant VSs on this buttress giving varied and sustained climbing throughout. Start at the base of a left-to-right slanting ramp that leads up into the huge corner.
1) 4a, 16m. Head up the ramp to the base of the corner and a belay at a block.
2) 4b, 26m. From the block, climb the corner to a ledge where a line of weakness is present on the slabby wall to the left - possible belay. Make a technical traverse across the weakness for 6m to gain a crack and finish up it. The huge corner can be climbed all the way - Ardus Direct Finish, VS 4c. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Shepherd's Crag - top 25 , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Lakes Hard Severe and Mild VS , Nuts of Legends , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , Turbo-Punter's Tradification
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lloydy | 3 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The traverse is bold but the holds are there and eventually you will find places for protection. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The traverse is bold but the holds are there and eventually you will find places for protection. |
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| flatnose | 8 May, 2016 |
Show βeta
βeta: Led 1`st & 3rd pitch. Took the high road on the top pitch traverse using hand holds as footholds and crimps on the wall: gripping! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Led 1`st & 3rd pitch. Took the high road on the top pitch traverse using hand holds as footholds and crimps on the wall: gripping! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shepherd’s Crag
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The Fang
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Gouther Crags)