A long expedition with a very bold section on the first pitch. Start at the chimney on the right-hand side of the large pinnacle.
1) 4b, 32m. Ascend the chimney to a chockstone. From the chockstone, climb the tricky and bold wall to a ledge. Move up the short corner to a dead tree stump and then move left over blocks to the terrace. Scramble up past trees to a belay below a large triangular perched boulder.
2) 4a, 30m. Climb leftwards past an oblong protruding block to meet the long easy-angled ridge that leads to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
south of Chamonix (not Little Chamonix)you will see a Chimney with a hanging chockstone. Climb the short obvious chimney of 20ft, easy enough to a stance and probably for the best, a belay. The next part of the first pitch/second pitch really, is extremely polished and you can not get gear in. You just have to go for it. As you ascend the ridge from the tree area which connects to several climbs including the middle of Little Chamonix, the climbing is of a good MS standard. Originally this whole climb was a VD - which was nuts. But climbers must have their wits about them not to miss the point of the whole climb: the last pitch, hence 'Crescendo'. As you reach the top near the Belvedere, you must descend slightly to do the final short pitch which traverses and ascends a shallow scoop on the face and leads you up to middle of the Belvedere proper. The rock is very grippy with not a hint of polish (it is well-skipped). This is what makes the climb a HS, if it is ommitted then the climb is a MS, but just think, back in the 60s before all this good gear we have, those boys regarded this as a VD! While the tiny traverse is very technical, the rock is very good, although it is very hard to protect. Micros are of immense use when you get to the ledge as there are a couple of small cracks - a #1 wire will fit, but will not look like it will hold, thus use a micro. Excellent climb.
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