Restricted Access
The BMC Access Fund and Patagonia equipment funded footpath stabilisation work at the crag in early 2000.
16 October 2020 - The parking for Shepherds Crag at Lodore Farm is closed. Please look to park elsewhere: Kettlewell or Bowderstone car parks , bus from Keswick or cycle. We need to respectful of the owner’s decision. The Lakes area access reps are hoping to meet with the owner soon.
03 January 2023 - Rockfall reported "I was walking below shepherds crag on Jan 1st, and found what appears to be a very recent rockfall.
I don't know the crag, so can't tell you what route it was near, but walking from the south of the crag it was just before the path starts to drop steeply near the north end.
It was dusk, so I couldn't see where the rock had fallen from (low down, or higher up), but it seemed to have a smashed tree associated with the debris. Main block was probably 2m x 1.5m x 1.5m approx. No idea if routes are affected at all, but I suspect that the area needs to be inspected by someone competent in the area of safety/stability of rock."
Update to follow once area has been investigated.
Rockfax Description
Start just right of Crescendo's chimney at a dark streak.
1) 4c, 30m. Follow the dark streak to a ledge, then climb the steep broken cracks to the terrace. Move up right to a tree belay shared with Little Chamonix.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb to midway up Little Chamonix's groove then traverse left at a thin crack to an overhang. Move up its left side and continue traversing until it is possible to climb up a tricky groove to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
In the new FRCC Borrowdale Guide book, it credits this first pitch of the climb to Scorpion, in fact, this pitch of VS is and always has been the first pitch of The Bludgeon. The original first pitch of Scorpion went up the broken rock to the RIGHT of Little Chamonix.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| SuperLee1985 | 7 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Unless you have fingers of steel, the move onto the upper slab at the thing crack is utterly desperate for the grade. I've climbed nearly 200 VS routes and this was by hard the hardest single move I've encountered on any of them and it's not especially well protected without the right gear. At least 5B in my opinion. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Unless you have fingers of steel, the move onto the upper slab at the thing crack is utterly desperate for the grade. I've climbed nearly 200 VS routes and this was by hard the hardest single move I've encountered on any of them and it's not especially well protected without the right gear. At least 5B in my opinion. |
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| Nelsonclimb0489 | 12 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hardest VS ive ever climbed. Very bold and brave in p2. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hardest VS ive ever climbed. Very bold and brave in p2. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shepherd’s Crag
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Eagle Front
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Eagle Crag (Buttermere))