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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
One difficult sequence. Climb a crack to under an overhang. Make tough moves over (peg) to reach a good hold. Climb a crack then go rightwards up the wall to a pocketed sheet. © Rockfax

Mick Learoyd R.Thomas G.Royle 02/Aug/1985.

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 10
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kaiser Wall

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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