Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Start under the right side of the overhang. Move up past the right end of the overhang to the upper of two breaks - peg in each break. Head boldly up the wall to a peg and finish as for Lundy Calling. Formerly climbed with bolts now removed. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Once a F7a (E4 6b old money) sport climb, the bolts have been removed and it has now been reclimbed as a trad route. The route remains the same technically, but adds an extra two E-points. Shorn Cliff's hardest route.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Howitzer
Grade: E6 6c ***
(Hope Mansel)