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150m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Despite some grotty terrain, this is a worthwhile route, and well equipped where it matters. Start right of a groove and rib.
1) 5, 28m. Climb a rib, trending slightly rightwards to the first bolt, then up the buttress, passing a small roof to a good stance.
2) 5+, 15m. Continue up the slanting crack splitting the wall (4 bolts) then head leftwards past the Arete to a stance.
3) 4, 25m. Straight up slabby rock, passing ledges to a bay.
4) 3, 25m. A scrappy pitch. Climb to a ledge at 5m, then trend left (red arrows) to a stance below a groove.
5) 4+, 40m. Up the steep corner/groove (bolts) and then continue more easily to a finish up the right Arete.
Descent - Traverse 40m east (red arrows) to the notch. Scramble down 30m a tree on Lofi - abseil down this. © Rockfax

FA. Hannelore and Kurt Krentzenbeck 2000s Equipped by Horst Urban. 2005.

Feedback

User Date Notes
ulbau 1 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Take a small rack if you don’t like runouts. The climbing is easy but bolts are spaced in places. First pitch is longer than 28m! We were close to full length on our 40m rope!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take a small rack if you don’t like runouts. The climbing is easy but bolts are spaced in places. First pitch is longer than 28m! We were close to full length on our 40m rope!
JayWhiting 3 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route for entry into mid-length multi-pitching. Well protected, but leave enough daylight hours. We started at around 2pm and ended up abseiling down in the dark. The views at the top are sublime. The second (crux) pitch is well protected, but bring a set of nuts and a couple of medium sized cams if you have them.
 
Show beta
βeta: Great route for entry into mid-length multi-pitching. Well protected, but leave enough daylight hours. We started at around 2pm and ended up abseiling down in the dark. The views at the top are sublime. The second (crux) pitch is well protected, but bring a set of nuts and a couple of medium sized cams if you have them.
Ingajast 15 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic views from there. It's a popular route so be aware that other people will want to climb it too. Gets confusing after 2nd pitch, make sure to keep left, else you might join a different route on the right. Pack a lunch to have at the summit! And bring walking shoes to get down with. There is a quick walk route down (past the abseil point, keep following the via ferrata). It's faster than abseiling down. We kept to the right side to abseil down in 2 pitches and by the time we got down, people walked down and were already at the bottom before us
 
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic views from there. It's a popular route so be aware that other people will want to climb it too. Gets confusing after 2nd pitch, make sure to keep left, else you might join a different route on the right. Pack a lunch to have at the summit! And bring walking shoes to get down with. There is a quick walk route down (past the abseil point, keep following the via ferrata). It's faster than abseiling down. We kept to the right side to abseil down in 2 pitches and by the time we got down, people walked down and were already at the bottom before us
VNT 11 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P1 and P2 can be combined into 1 pitch. Same with P3 and P4. P5 does not end where there are two belay stations, it goes straight up for next 10-15 meters to the final big ledge with abseil anchors. No need to travers to Lofi tree, you can abseil in 3 60m runs (double rope).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1 and P2 can be combined into 1 pitch. Same with P3 and P4. P5 does not end where there are two belay stations, it goes straight up for next 10-15 meters to the final big ledge with abseil anchors. No need to travers to Lofi tree, you can abseil in 3 60m runs (double rope).
MorganMcGlade 21 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 4th pitch is not easy to find the way to go
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 4th pitch is not easy to find the way to go
Dnmn 6 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Misnamed, now has "Cilber" written at the base in Red along with number and lengths of pitches. Route finding on route is facilitated by the same tin of red paint.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Misnamed, now has "Cilber" written at the base in Red along with number and lengths of pitches. Route finding on route is facilitated by the same tin of red paint.

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High 6a
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High 4c
Mid 4c
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Votes cast 35
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
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Ground Up
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Route of Interest

Llobet/Bertomeu

Grade: 5c ***
(Mascarat)