UKC

160m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. A popular mini-expedition. There is some fixed gear where most needed, but take a rack. Approach by walking right (looking out) from the base of the ladders. Competent climbers will find the first 2 pitches solo-able however, if unsure, rope up.
1) 3, 25m. Traverse left to the Arete and then left again, descending into a cave.
Walk/scramble left across ledges to the left edge of the cave and step around onto a good ledge.
2) 3, 10m. Climb the wide crack on the left to a ledge then drop down left into a hollow.
3) 4, 20m. Traverse left to the Arete and climb round into a scoop. Pull past the overlap into a larger scoop. Old bolts.
4) 4, 25m. Traverse right to the Arete and climb this, trending right at the top, to a ledge. Belay here or continue traversing right into the next cave, poor bolt and gear to belay.
5) 5, 40m. A fine exposed pitch - about HVS 5a. Climb right and up into the next cave then left onto the Arete and up to a good ledge. Move right, climb the groove, moving right at its top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The abseil in is around 50m - double ropes needed, or leave a single rope in place and collect it later.
May be fully bolted now?

FA. R.Edwards 1986. Climbed solo, bolts placed later..

Ticklists

Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List , Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa Blanca 25 by 2025 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Costa blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
steve2006 9 Mar Show βeta
βeta: top section of abseil has via-ferrata bent steel steps (lower section has rusty ladder you cannot see from the top). pitches 1,2 have no belay bolts we did them alpin-style with 12meter of rope between us. Belays at start of each pitch 4,5,6 have two cemented bolts and many new bolts exist but feel far apart, especially the last bolt but there's a long crack to place wires/cam for the final 4meters.
Show beta
βeta: top section of abseil has via-ferrata bent steel steps (lower section has rusty ladder you cannot see from the top). pitches 1,2 have no belay bolts we did them alpin-style with 12meter of rope between us. Belays at start of each pitch 4,5,6 have two cemented bolts and many new bolts exist but feel far apart, especially the last bolt but there's a long crack to place wires/cam for the final 4meters.
shlee 26 Feb Show βeta
βeta: All the tough sections are reasonably well protected with bolts, took a small rack but didnt place any gear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: All the tough sections are reasonably well protected with bolts, took a small rack but didnt place any gear!
Tall Oak 15 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Poor Swanny I took the leap and went past the good bolts on the end of P4 and into the cave. Wouldnt recommend in all honesty. Also took the arete around P3 too high which lead to a nails down climb and quite intimidating. P5 for me was the money pitch and really enjoyed it. Brilliant weather and a grand day out. Cheers Swanny for sticking with me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Poor Swanny I took the leap and went past the good bolts on the end of P4 and into the cave. Wouldnt recommend in all honesty. Also took the arete around P3 too high which lead to a nails down climb and quite intimidating. P5 for me was the money pitch and really enjoyed it. Brilliant weather and a grand day out. Cheers Swanny for sticking with me.
GaryK 9 Jan Show βeta
βeta: All belays are bolted, with bolt runners on most pitches. Take small cams for top 10m of last pitch, (Friend 1), quicker than placing a wire.
Show beta
βeta: All belays are bolted, with bolt runners on most pitches. Take small cams for top 10m of last pitch, (Friend 1), quicker than placing a wire.
jackdimples1 3 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Bolted for entirety, except for one nut required at the top of the last pitch - don’t bother taking a large rack.
Show beta
βeta: Bolted for entirety, except for one nut required at the top of the last pitch - don’t bother taking a large rack.
Melissa11 5 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 45m ab
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 45m ab
JimOakleyAdventures 1 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax has some anomalies !! 25 mins walk on cairned path 45 m abseil Pitch 1 & 2 easy scramble P3 is only 10m around the airy arête - stay low and climb up into scoop. P4 - look up and right, you’ll see the first two bolts as you pull over the feature P5 - is only 25n not 40m ! Placed one nut 3 hours car to car Belays are new bolts They is the odd set of bolts leading up to the right whilst Scrambling in to get to P3, don’t be mistaken and climb these as some teams have !
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax has some anomalies !! 25 mins walk on cairned path 45 m abseil Pitch 1 & 2 easy scramble P3 is only 10m around the airy arête - stay low and climb up into scoop. P4 - look up and right, you’ll see the first two bolts as you pull over the feature P5 - is only 25n not 40m ! Placed one nut 3 hours car to car Belays are new bolts They is the odd set of bolts leading up to the right whilst Scrambling in to get to P3, don’t be mistaken and climb these as some teams have !
mountaindavet 18 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Spaced bolts and quite serious overall. The HVS grade would be more relevant.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Spaced bolts and quite serious overall. The HVS grade would be more relevant.
Zoomer 29 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sportingly placed bolts!
Show beta
βeta: Sportingly placed bolts!
RedBandit 17 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First 3 pitches are all scramble-able. Pitch 4 seems to start closer to the “4” (route grade) in the guide book picture. Pitch 5 is fully bolted. Final pitch may need smallish cams for a piece of mind or for your less confident climbing buddy to pull on. Otherwise the first half has plenty bolts and the 2nd half has slightly spaced out bolts but bomber holds.
Show beta
βeta: First 3 pitches are all scramble-able. Pitch 4 seems to start closer to the “4” (route grade) in the guide book picture. Pitch 5 is fully bolted. Final pitch may need smallish cams for a piece of mind or for your less confident climbing buddy to pull on. Otherwise the first half has plenty bolts and the 2nd half has slightly spaced out bolts but bomber holds.
ZacMoss 9 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Now almost completely bolted, apart from the last crack at the end of p5. Bring a cam or two.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Now almost completely bolted, apart from the last crack at the end of p5. Bring a cam or two.
Nick Smith - Climbers 28 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A brilliant adventure, but very spaced gear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A brilliant adventure, but very spaced gear!
brianrunner 16 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good route with exciting situations but is a bit scary with poor pro and some loose rock. I couldn't work out the ENP thingies. We belayed at 'the next cave' after pitch 4 and the final pitch was only about 25m. The hard part on pitch 5 is the arete for about 5m- it is easier after that. I second the view that leaving an abseil rope in place is a good idea in case escape is required. Its an abseil of a little under 45m down to the ledge. Final point- we did it yesterday 15/04/05 and there are lots of nesting gulls and eggs on the route and if we new that in advance we wouldn't have climbed it, so I would recommend leaving it during nesting season.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route with exciting situations but is a bit scary with poor pro and some loose rock. I couldn't work out the ENP thingies. We belayed at 'the next cave' after pitch 4 and the final pitch was only about 25m. The hard part on pitch 5 is the arete for about 5m- it is easier after that. I second the view that leaving an abseil rope in place is a good idea in case escape is required. Its an abseil of a little under 45m down to the ledge. Final point- we did it yesterday 15/04/05 and there are lots of nesting gulls and eggs on the route and if we new that in advance we wouldn't have climbed it, so I would recommend leaving it during nesting season.
Dnmn 6 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Such is the quality of gear and exposure on this route that a couple of climbers from Calpe attempted to escape from the area by climbing the ladders, having abbed in and pulled the ropes through. We plucked them from the top of the second ladder as they were trying to find a way out. Moral? Leave ab ropes in place, or take your swimming trunks, if not absolutely confident of success.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Such is the quality of gear and exposure on this route that a couple of climbers from Calpe attempted to escape from the area by climbing the ladders, having abbed in and pulled the ropes through. We plucked them from the top of the second ladder as they were trying to find a way out. Moral? Leave ab ropes in place, or take your swimming trunks, if not absolutely confident of success.
Dnmn 6 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The rock is not solid and the gear is sparse. Belays are ENPs and little else particularly on pitch 3
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The rock is not solid and the gear is sparse. Belays are ENPs and little else particularly on pitch 3
Gripped 5 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Descend the fishermans ladder if you dare. No way ho zay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Descend the fishermans ladder if you dare. No way ho zay.

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High 5c
Mid 5c
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Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
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Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 69
Votes cast 67
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Espolón Limaban

Grade: 5a ***
(Sierra de Toix)

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