Rockfax Description
HVS. A popular mini-expedition. There is some fixed gear where most needed, but take a rack. Approach by walking right (looking out) from the base of the ladders. Competent climbers will find the first 2 pitches solo-able however, if unsure, rope up.1) 3, 25m. Traverse left to the Arete and then left again, descending into a cave.Walk/scramble left across ledges to the left edge of the cave and step around onto a good ledge.2) 3, 10m. Climb the wide crack on the left to a ledge then drop down left into a hollow.3) 4, 20m. Traverse left to the Arete and climb round into a scoop. Pull past the overlap into a larger scoop. Old bolts.4) 4, 25m. Traverse right to the Arete and climb this, trending right at the top, to a ledge. Belay here or continue traversing right into the next cave, poor bolt and gear to belay.5) 5, 40m. A fine exposed pitch - about HVS 5a. Climb right and up into the next cave then left onto the Arete and up to a good ledge. Move right, climb the groove, moving right at its top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The abseil in is around 50m - double ropes needed, or leave a single rope in place and collect it later.
May be fully bolted now?
FA. R.Edwards 1986. Climbed solo, bolts placed later..
Ticklists
Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025, Adventure ticklist 2018
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| mountaindavet | 18 Oct |
Show βeta
βeta: Spaced bolts and quite serious overall. The HVS grade would be more relevant. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Spaced bolts and quite serious overall. The HVS grade would be more relevant. |
||||
| Zoomer | 29 Nov, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sportingly placed bolts! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Sportingly placed bolts! |
||||
| RedBandit | 17 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: First 3 pitches are all scramble-able. Pitch 4 seems to start closer to the “4” (route grade) in the guide book picture. Pitch 5 is fully bolted. Final pitch may need smallish cams for a piece of mind or for your less confident climbing buddy to pull on. Otherwise the first half has plenty bolts and the 2nd half has slightly spaced out bolts but bomber holds. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: First 3 pitches are all scramble-able. Pitch 4 seems to start closer to the “4” (route grade) in the guide book picture. Pitch 5 is fully bolted. Final pitch may need smallish cams for a piece of mind or for your less confident climbing buddy to pull on. Otherwise the first half has plenty bolts and the 2nd half has slightly spaced out bolts but bomber holds. |
||||
| ZacMoss | 9 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Now almost completely bolted, apart from the last crack at the end of p5. Bring a cam or two. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Now almost completely bolted, apart from the last crack at the end of p5. Bring a cam or two. |
||||
| Nick Smith - Climbers | 28 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: A brilliant adventure, but very spaced gear! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A brilliant adventure, but very spaced gear! |
||||
| brianrunner | 16 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good route with exciting situations but is a bit scary with poor pro and some loose rock. I couldn't work out the ENP thingies. We belayed at 'the next cave' after pitch 4 and the final pitch was only about 25m. The hard part on pitch 5 is the arete for about 5m- it is easier after that. I second the view that leaving an abseil rope in place is a good idea in case escape is required. Its an abseil of a little under 45m down to the ledge. Final point- we did it yesterday 15/04/05 and there are lots of nesting gulls and eggs on the route and if we new that in advance we wouldn't have climbed it, so I would recommend leaving it during nesting season. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A good route with exciting situations but is a bit scary with poor pro and some loose rock. I couldn't work out the ENP thingies. We belayed at 'the next cave' after pitch 4 and the final pitch was only about 25m. The hard part on pitch 5 is the arete for about 5m- it is easier after that. I second the view that leaving an abseil rope in place is a good idea in case escape is required. Its an abseil of a little under 45m down to the ledge. Final point- we did it yesterday 15/04/05 and there are lots of nesting gulls and eggs on the route and if we new that in advance we wouldn't have climbed it, so I would recommend leaving it during nesting season. |
||||
| Dnmn | 6 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Such is the quality of gear and exposure on this route that a couple of climbers from Calpe attempted to escape from the area by climbing the ladders, having abbed in and pulled the ropes through. We plucked them from the top of the second ladder as they were trying to find a way out. Moral? Leave ab ropes in place, or take your swimming trunks, if not absolutely confident of success. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Such is the quality of gear and exposure on this route that a couple of climbers from Calpe attempted to escape from the area by climbing the ladders, having abbed in and pulled the ropes through. We plucked them from the top of the second ladder as they were trying to find a way out. Moral? Leave ab ropes in place, or take your swimming trunks, if not absolutely confident of success. |
||||
| Dnmn | 6 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The rock is not solid and the gear is sparse. Belays are ENPs and little else particularly on pitch 3 | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The rock is not solid and the gear is sparse. Belays are ENPs and little else particularly on pitch 3 |
||||
| Gripped | 5 Dec, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Descend the fishermans ladder if you dare. No way ho zay. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Descend the fishermans ladder if you dare. No way ho zay. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Espolón Limaban
Grade: 5a ***(Sierra de Toix)