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160m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. A popular mini-expedition. There is some fixed gear where most needed, but take a rack. Approach by walking right (looking out) from the base of the ladders. Competent climbers will find the first 2 pitches solo-able however, if unsure, rope up.
1) 3, 25m. Traverse left to the Arete and then left again, descending into a cave.
Walk/scramble left across ledges to the left edge of the cave and step around onto a good ledge.
2) 3, 10m. Climb the wide crack on the left to a ledge then drop down left into a hollow.
3) 4, 20m. Traverse left to the Arete and climb round into a scoop. Pull past the overlap into a larger scoop. Old bolts.
4) 4, 25m. Traverse right to the Arete and climb this, trending right at the top, to a ledge. Belay here or continue traversing right into the next cave, poor bolt and gear to belay.
5) 5, 40m. A fine exposed pitch - about HVS 5a. Climb right and up into the next cave then left onto the Arete and up to a good ledge. Move right, climb the groove, moving right at its top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The abseil in is around 50m - double ropes needed, or leave a single rope in place and collect it later.
May be fully bolted now?

FA. R.Edwards 1986. Climbed solo, bolts placed later..

Ticklists

Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025, Adventure ticklist 2018

Feedback

User Date Notes
mountaindavet 18 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Spaced bolts and quite serious overall. The HVS grade would be more relevant.
βeta?
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βeta: Spaced bolts and quite serious overall. The HVS grade would be more relevant.
Zoomer 29 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sportingly placed bolts!
 
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βeta: Sportingly placed bolts!
RedBandit 17 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First 3 pitches are all scramble-able. Pitch 4 seems to start closer to the “4” (route grade) in the guide book picture. Pitch 5 is fully bolted. Final pitch may need smallish cams for a piece of mind or for your less confident climbing buddy to pull on. Otherwise the first half has plenty bolts and the 2nd half has slightly spaced out bolts but bomber holds.
 
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βeta: First 3 pitches are all scramble-able. Pitch 4 seems to start closer to the “4” (route grade) in the guide book picture. Pitch 5 is fully bolted. Final pitch may need smallish cams for a piece of mind or for your less confident climbing buddy to pull on. Otherwise the first half has plenty bolts and the 2nd half has slightly spaced out bolts but bomber holds.
ZacMoss 9 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Now almost completely bolted, apart from the last crack at the end of p5. Bring a cam or two.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Now almost completely bolted, apart from the last crack at the end of p5. Bring a cam or two.
Nick Smith - Climbers 28 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A brilliant adventure, but very spaced gear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A brilliant adventure, but very spaced gear!
brianrunner 16 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good route with exciting situations but is a bit scary with poor pro and some loose rock. I couldn't work out the ENP thingies. We belayed at 'the next cave' after pitch 4 and the final pitch was only about 25m. The hard part on pitch 5 is the arete for about 5m- it is easier after that. I second the view that leaving an abseil rope in place is a good idea in case escape is required. Its an abseil of a little under 45m down to the ledge. Final point- we did it yesterday 15/04/05 and there are lots of nesting gulls and eggs on the route and if we new that in advance we wouldn't have climbed it, so I would recommend leaving it during nesting season.
βeta?
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βeta: A good route with exciting situations but is a bit scary with poor pro and some loose rock. I couldn't work out the ENP thingies. We belayed at 'the next cave' after pitch 4 and the final pitch was only about 25m. The hard part on pitch 5 is the arete for about 5m- it is easier after that. I second the view that leaving an abseil rope in place is a good idea in case escape is required. Its an abseil of a little under 45m down to the ledge. Final point- we did it yesterday 15/04/05 and there are lots of nesting gulls and eggs on the route and if we new that in advance we wouldn't have climbed it, so I would recommend leaving it during nesting season.
Dnmn 6 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Such is the quality of gear and exposure on this route that a couple of climbers from Calpe attempted to escape from the area by climbing the ladders, having abbed in and pulled the ropes through. We plucked them from the top of the second ladder as they were trying to find a way out. Moral? Leave ab ropes in place, or take your swimming trunks, if not absolutely confident of success.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Such is the quality of gear and exposure on this route that a couple of climbers from Calpe attempted to escape from the area by climbing the ladders, having abbed in and pulled the ropes through. We plucked them from the top of the second ladder as they were trying to find a way out. Moral? Leave ab ropes in place, or take your swimming trunks, if not absolutely confident of success.
Dnmn 6 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The rock is not solid and the gear is sparse. Belays are ENPs and little else particularly on pitch 3
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The rock is not solid and the gear is sparse. Belays are ENPs and little else particularly on pitch 3
Gripped 5 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Descend the fishermans ladder if you dare. No way ho zay.
βeta?
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βeta: Descend the fishermans ladder if you dare. No way ho zay.

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High 5c
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High 5a
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Mid 4c
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Votes cast 65
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
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Route of Interest

Espolón Limaban

Grade: 5a ***
(Sierra de Toix)