UKC

Restricted Access

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

There was a landslide on the steep descent to the north of the lighthouse in November 2021 causing damage to the bolt anchors and fixed ropes. The recommended alternative descent is by the easier route further north. The Fishermans steps is another alternative to the south but this is only recommended to those who are really happy with strenuous and exposed descents. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates.

Other restricted St Bees areas:

  • St. Bees Far South Boulders - South of Fisherman's Steps / "Fishermans Dyno Boulder
  • St. Bees Head South - sectors beyond "Cryptozoo" and the cliff top access path

Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore.

At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.

The sit start to clash of the titans, uses only holds on the lip and the rh face

Dan Varian 2009.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

There are no ascents logged for this climb.

Guidebooks for St. Bees Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 4 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High f8A+
Mid f8A+
Low f8A+
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
Route of Interest
XXXR

Grade: f8A ***
(The Bowderstone)

Loading Notifications...