UKC

Restricted Access

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

There was a landslide on the steep descent to the north of the lighthouse in November 2021 causing damage to the bolt anchors and fixed ropes. The recommended alternative descent is by the easier route further north. The Fishermans steps is another alternative to the south but this is only recommended to those who are really happy with strenuous and exposed descents. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates.

Other restricted St Bees areas:

  • St. Bees Far South Boulders - South of Fisherman's Steps / "Fishermans Dyno Boulder
  • St. Bees Head South - sectors beyond "Cryptozoo" and the cliff top access path

Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore.

At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.

NOW DEFUNCT DUE TO ROCK SLIDE

A Wilson.

Ticklists

RCCR

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chris Shepherd 11 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First hold now has a helpful jam, but it's hard not to dab. Somewhere around 7A+/7B area.
Show beta
βeta: First hold now has a helpful jam, but it's hard not to dab. Somewhere around 7A+/7B area.
Jackawocky 9 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Still a great climb after the rock fall. Now has a hand jam for the sit start but is hard to not dab. Probably still 7b with the far under sit start.
Show beta
βeta: Still a great climb after the rock fall. Now has a hand jam for the sit start but is hard to not dab. Probably still 7b with the far under sit start.

Logged Ascents

164 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Bees Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 9 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Loading Notifications...