Climbs 151
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces SW
Andy Reeve © chris fox
Crag features
This army-free region needs little introduction for most seasoned visitors; just about every Pembroke devotee has spent time and energy devouring the crag's colossal spread of highly-charged classics. These mega-lines include Tactician (HVS), The Arrow (E1), Deranged (E2), Space Cadet (E3), Tangerine Dream (E4) and Get Some In (E5). Have no fear; your ticklist will prove to be almost unquenchable. The one minor glitch in the proceedings is the mammoth rockfalls that have taken place during the last decade - gone is Conscientious Objector and its close neighbours, along with much of the quality of the Zodiac Face. But what remains still provides a stupendous number of high-quality routes, including some of the very best ticks in the county. Enjoy, and return often.
Approach notes
Most people abseil in from stakes at the top of cliffs. Beware climbers below. Alternative is a descent chimney - not much fun, but less risk to others.
Access Advice
The seasonal restriction due to nesting Choughs between the routes "Draught Dodger" and "D-Day" . RESTRICTIONS LIFTED 22 JULY (FOR 2020)
Feb. 2018 - more minor rock falls - beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - dodgy blocks in first break at about 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restrcted area but please do not linger below this section. Restriction lifted July 2020
St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac inclusive. RESTRICTION LIFTED 22 JULY 2020
Rockfax Digital
Available on Rockfax Digital
Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.
Guidebooks
Pembroke
This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
Pembroke
This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's (2011)
Out of print:
| Stoney by the sea - the worst of the major crags in Pembroke?? Still some of the routes are good... Fiend - 08/Apr/06 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer loundsy