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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
Climbs 638
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 444m a.s.l
Faces W
Quietus Right Hand © Apharri
Crag features
Stanage North is the first section of the cliff to be described, and is the least popular of the three main sections. It runs from the Long Causeway all the way out to End Slab, and apart from High Neb and Crow Chin, the whole area is normally pretty quiet. It lacks the ranked classics of the Plantation and the Popular End but there is plenty of good climbing here, in a remoter feeling setting than the rest of the cliff, and with a greater chance of solitude.
The right-hand half of this section of the edge faces southwest and catches the sun from the mid-morning onwards. It is exposed to any bad weather but dries quickly after rain although a few routes can be a bit green and sandy. Further left the cliff swings round to face due west, it gets the sun later in the day, and is greener in the winter. Midges can be a problem in the late spring and summer when the wind drops.
Approach notes
The High Neb parking is the usual starting place - it is rarely full except on sunny summer weekends. The Long Causeway leads towards the cliff then bears away rightwards towards western Sheffield. A couple of stiles on the left lead steeply to a good horizontal track that runs below the whole of this section of the cliff. It is also possible to approach from the A57 from very limited parking near the crest of the hill. This is the quickest approach for the crags near Stanage End.
Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax App
Available in the Rockfax App
The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.
Guidebooks
Eastern Grit
Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
Peak Bouldering
The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.Peak District: Bouldering (2011)
Peak District : Climbing (2008)
Peak NE Pokketz (2007)
Stanage - the Definitive Guide (2007)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Gritstone Route Database (2001)
Out of print:
Peak District: Bouldering (2004)
Stanage - the Definitive Guidebook (2002)
Peak Gritstone East (2001)
Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998)
Stanage Topo (1993)
Peak Climbs - Stanage (1989)
| good, quiet and underestimated part of stanage. antoniusblock - 22/May/10 | |
| This is the same venue as Buckstone Edge aka the Buckstones aka Nont Sarah's. PLease see http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9058 for bouldering details. bentley's biceps - 08/Sep/08 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Alan James - UKC and UKH