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16m.

Rockfax Description
Devious but also excellent. Follow the crack sprouting from the right edge of the recess to its end then traverse left to finish as for the Direct variation. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Kelly 1915.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins., Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), The Gritlist

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User Date Notes
Fraser kid 22 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Climbing rubbish today.
βeta?
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βeta: Climbing rubbish today.
Jon Greengrass 17 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: nice route, interesting start, hand or feet traverse the break and take something really big for the top crack 5 inches plus, which is over in a couple of layback moves. My handy Big Bro 1 fitted lovely.
βeta?
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βeta: nice route, interesting start, hand or feet traverse the break and take something really big for the top crack 5 inches plus, which is over in a couple of layback moves. My handy Big Bro 1 fitted lovely.
Richard 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. If you get the sequence right for the first moves, it's pretty straightforward, although balancy.
βeta?
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βeta: Great route. If you get the sequence right for the first moves, it's pretty straightforward, although balancy.
Si dH 13 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Good route, althoug hpretty easy for VS I think. A tricky move in each crack but all bomber-protected with some cams.
βeta?
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βeta: Good route, althoug hpretty easy for VS I think. A tricky move in each crack but all bomber-protected with some cams.
Nick Smith - Climbers 9 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A far more interesting route than the Direct variant.
βeta?
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βeta: A far more interesting route than the Direct variant.
gav p 8 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: In response to Jon, from memory, there's a bomber friend 4 in the first bit of the deep finishing crack. You were probably trying to place it too high.
βeta?
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βeta: In response to Jon, from memory, there's a bomber friend 4 in the first bit of the deep finishing crack. You were probably trying to place it too high.
Jamie B 7 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Initial crack might be pushing 5a, but overall a safe and solid climb at the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: Initial crack might be pushing 5a, but overall a safe and solid climb at the grade.
gav p 15 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Yep, probably worth the three stars. Hard move to start, move up and shuffle across the foot traverse easily. Spectacular and strenuous finish, but well protected with big gear (ie friend 4).
βeta?
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βeta: Yep, probably worth the three stars. Hard move to start, move up and shuffle across the foot traverse easily. Spectacular and strenuous finish, but well protected with big gear (ie friend 4).
bone 14 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: theres a hidden step to help you on your way up the final crack. agree with the above - a quality climb.
βeta?
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βeta: theres a hidden step to help you on your way up the final crack. agree with the above - a quality climb.
Skyfall 18 Mar, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route - 3 star in my book - as neil says, take something very big to protect that top crack, then lay back and enjoy :)
βeta?
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βeta: Superb route - 3 star in my book - as neil says, take something very big to protect that top crack, then lay back and enjoy :)

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 254
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 245
Votes cast 252
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Mississippi Buttress Direct

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)