UKC

Climbs 784
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 430m a.s.l
Faces SW

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In between the endless showers, there has been the odd moment... © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing

Crag features

Stanage Plantation has a superb array of routes, including many great classics across the grades, as well as lots of lovely discrete spots for a bit of peace and quiet. The area has a lovely ambience when you first pop out of the trees and, as it unfolds in front of you, it is obvious that this whole section of Stanage is somewhere rather special. The delights on offer here are displayed less extravagantly than The Popular End but there are enough high quality routes for a great many visits.

The Plantation Boulders are immensely popular and the area is almost always busy, often even more so than the main cliff. 

The edge faces southwest and catches the sun from the mid-morning onwards. This means it can get very hot in summer. It is exposed to any bad weather but dries quickly after rain, although a few routes can be a bit green and sandy. Midges can be a problem in the late spring and summer when the wind drops.

Approach notes

The Plantation Parking (often with tea wagon) is the usual staring place - the Pay and Display area has room for a hundred or so vehicles - it is rarely full. A flagged path leads up towards the trees. Stay with the path for everywhere between Count's Buttress and Calvary, branch right and cut through the trees for Paradise Wall, Millsom's Minion and the Unconquerables areas.

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

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