UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
A traditional grovel. Sprint up the right-slanting layback, then swing right to the base of a wider section. Alternatively, take the jamming crack in the centre of the face - better. Improvise a way up the wide bit then step left for the easiest finish or go direct. © Rockfax

FA. Frank Elliot 1930.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Wide Cracks , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Jake's Freshers meet ticklist , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , UK road to wide crack mastery , Severe Stanage , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Charles Reade-Jahn 27 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: No friend 4 on this ascent.. Grovelled on up the wide crack with gear well below feet.. Felt hard, one of the top 5 on the VS challenge list..
Show beta
βeta: No friend 4 on this ascent.. Grovelled on up the wide crack with gear well below feet.. Felt hard, one of the top 5 on the VS challenge list..
Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax 24 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Ring Ouzel sign in place - no climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ring Ouzel sign in place - no climbing
Richard 261 13 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Not a particularly nice route and a bit of a grovel as the description states. Don't try to do this if it's rained the night before like I did. There'll be a small waterfall running down the crux moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not a particularly nice route and a bit of a grovel as the description states. Don't try to do this if it's rained the night before like I did. There'll be a small waterfall running down the crux moves.
el_tonto 11 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Managed to get a dubious looking hex in the crack to protect the crux, fell on it 2 or 3 times, seemed to hold. Felt like HVS to me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Managed to get a dubious looking hex in the crack to protect the crux, fell on it 2 or 3 times, seemed to hold. Felt like HVS to me.
Antony Mariani 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Left hand variant can be protected without big gear, but very strenuous and sustained, seemed HVS, 5a to me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left hand variant can be protected without big gear, but very strenuous and sustained, seemed HVS, 5a to me.
Simon Caldwell 29 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I wish I'd read these comments before trying the route, so I could have done something else instead!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I wish I'd read these comments before trying the route, so I could have done something else instead!
antcarney 6 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: found it hard for the grade and very strenny.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: found it hard for the grade and very strenny.
Stefan Kruger 17 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I sincerely doubt that many 'VS leaders' will get up this one. Dicey jams, not overly protectable with anything less than specialist big-crack gear and pretty butch and sustained (right-hand variation). Nice, if you like that sort of thing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I sincerely doubt that many 'VS leaders' will get up this one. Dicey jams, not overly protectable with anything less than specialist big-crack gear and pretty butch and sustained (right-hand variation). Nice, if you like that sort of thing.

Logged Ascents

1070 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 127 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 189
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 175
Votes cast 153
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dovestone Tor)

Loading Notifications...