Rockfax Description
A traditional grovel. Sprint up the right-slanting layback, then swing right to the base of a wider section. Alternatively, take the jamming crack in the centre of the face - better. Improvise a way up the wide bit then step left for the easiest finish or go direct. © Rockfax
FA. Frank Elliot 1930.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Wide Cracks , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Jake's Freshers meet ticklist , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , UK road to wide crack mastery , Severe Stanage , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Charles Reade-Jahn | 27 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: No friend 4 on this ascent.. Grovelled on up the wide crack with gear well below feet.. Felt hard, one of the top 5 on the VS challenge list.. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: No friend 4 on this ascent.. Grovelled on up the wide crack with gear well below feet.. Felt hard, one of the top 5 on the VS challenge list.. |
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| Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax | 24 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Ring Ouzel sign in place - no climbing | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ring Ouzel sign in place - no climbing |
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| Richard 261 | 13 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Not a particularly nice route and a bit of a grovel as the description states. Don't try to do this if it's rained the night before like I did. There'll be a small waterfall running down the crux moves. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not a particularly nice route and a bit of a grovel as the description states. Don't try to do this if it's rained the night before like I did. There'll be a small waterfall running down the crux moves. |
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| el_tonto | 11 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Managed to get a dubious looking hex in the crack to protect the crux, fell on it 2 or 3 times, seemed to hold. Felt like HVS to me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Managed to get a dubious looking hex in the crack to protect the crux, fell on it 2 or 3 times, seemed to hold. Felt like HVS to me. |
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| Scott | 12 May, 2004 |
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βeta: What a bitch struggle! Top half 'traditional' climbing in all of the WORST! senses of the word- probably easier in hob-nails and a nice thick tweed | βeta? | |
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βeta: What a bitch struggle! Top half 'traditional' climbing in all of the WORST! senses of the word- probably easier in hob-nails and a nice thick tweed |
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| Antony Mariani | 13 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Left hand variant can be protected without big gear, but very strenuous and sustained, seemed HVS, 5a to me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Left hand variant can be protected without big gear, but very strenuous and sustained, seemed HVS, 5a to me. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 29 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: I wish I'd read these comments before trying the route, so I could have done something else instead! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I wish I'd read these comments before trying the route, so I could have done something else instead! |
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| antcarney | 6 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: found it hard for the grade and very strenny. | βeta? | |
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βeta: found it hard for the grade and very strenny. |
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| Stefan Kruger | 17 Oct, 2002 |
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βeta: I sincerely doubt that many 'VS leaders' will get up this one. Dicey jams, not overly protectable with anything less than specialist big-crack gear and pretty butch and sustained (right-hand variation). Nice, if you like that sort of thing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I sincerely doubt that many 'VS leaders' will get up this one. Dicey jams, not overly protectable with anything less than specialist big-crack gear and pretty butch and sustained (right-hand variation). Nice, if you like that sort of thing. |
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Congo Corner
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)