UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
The thin crack is reached by a delicate traverse from the left or direct by a hard mantel. It provides finger-jams, runners and slippery footholds, and leads to the Right Twin Cave. Escape easily out right across the balcony or tackle the next route. © Rockfax

FA. Alf Bridge 1932.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
ulastopka 15 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I was a bit apprehensive to do the route as the traverse to the crack looked challenging and also there were tiny holds for feet but overall it was very nice route that lead to a balcony and twin cave.
Show beta
βeta: I was a bit apprehensive to do the route as the traverse to the crack looked challenging and also there were tiny holds for feet but overall it was very nice route that lead to a balcony and twin cave.
slacky 21 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The direct start is the obvious line, and I was most surprised when my friend who's several inches shorter than I made the long reach no probs, apparently a toe hook comes in very handy. If you get to the balcony, you should definately go for Hardings finish.
Show beta
βeta: The direct start is the obvious line, and I was most surprised when my friend who's several inches shorter than I made the long reach no probs, apparently a toe hook comes in very handy. If you get to the balcony, you should definately go for Hardings finish.
jswindsor 19 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: couldn't agree with comment about dirct start being the only proper way to begin route! This "alternative" start is a unique vs at stanage-try it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: couldn't agree with comment about dirct start being the only proper way to begin route! This "alternative" start is a unique vs at stanage-try it!
Albie 12 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The entertainment comes from getting onto the shelf and attempting to stand up for the long reach to the break above. Decent protection from there on though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The entertainment comes from getting onto the shelf and attempting to stand up for the long reach to the break above. Decent protection from there on though.

Logged Ascents

1350 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 94 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 122
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 116
Votes cast 112
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sand Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Black Rocks)

Loading Notifications...