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18m.

Rockfax Description
A devious classic and solid at the grade! Climb the right arete, past a tricky overlap, to the big roof. Traverse left then grope up and left for good jams. Swiftly make the crux moves to get established on the final wall then finish easily. © Rockfax

FA. Barry Webb 1964.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Stanage: My Favourite Five, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Tick List for 2015/2016, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, Stanage Wishlist, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Extreme 2018, Stanage Popular, On Peak Rock, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Big Boy Pants, Jem's Time in the Peaks, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags., Ryan's E potentials

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jus 13 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A friend in the lower wall, a nut before you traverse left and a medium cam in the roof below the rockover. Sorted. Best E1 I've done.
 
Show beta
βeta: A friend in the lower wall, a nut before you traverse left and a medium cam in the roof below the rockover. Sorted. Best E1 I've done.
Pythonist 14 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: What are you folks doing using Cams on this? I got a reasonable nut in on the traverse - yes, it fell out after rocking up on to the upper slab, but I had a superb nut in before doing the move, so the route is well protected throughout. Especially if you place the piece on the traverse, then retreat to the right for a rest before committing to the finish. Fantastic route, with almost every move earning its place on this 3* E1.
 
Show beta
βeta: What are you folks doing using Cams on this? I got a reasonable nut in on the traverse - yes, it fell out after rocking up on to the upper slab, but I had a superb nut in before doing the move, so the route is well protected throughout. Especially if you place the piece on the traverse, then retreat to the right for a rest before committing to the finish. Fantastic route, with almost every move earning its place on this 3* E1.
MeMeMe 15 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The gear on the traverse didn't look all that good to me, I tried to fiddle in a small cam but gave up. I guess you might be able to get one in the best hold on the traverse, but I wanted to use that for my hand! Bomber gear for the crux (small cam in crack and a bigger one in the break above), and fantastic move up from the jams.
 
Show beta
βeta: The gear on the traverse didn't look all that good to me, I tried to fiddle in a small cam but gave up. I guess you might be able to get one in the best hold on the traverse, but I wanted to use that for my hand! Bomber gear for the crux (small cam in crack and a bigger one in the break above), and fantastic move up from the jams.
cem 16 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Is the cam protection that good? I've witnessed someone fall off at the end of the traverse, rip out several cams & do a massive pendulum. His feet were almost scraping the ground!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is the cam protection that good? I've witnessed someone fall off at the end of the traverse, rip out several cams & do a massive pendulum. His feet were almost scraping the ground!
Garan 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Did it last night (09/06/04). No thread.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did it last night (09/06/04). No thread.
stow 22 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: WARNING - GEAR BETA FOLLOWS: Unsolicited gear beta is bad, but since the last guy broke his ankle... I was able to protect the traverse with an ok small cam in one of the handholds on the traverse (green alien?) and if there is no thread a yellow alien in the crack splitting the roof is bomber, as is a no. 2 red camalot in the big break above the roof. Nice route.
 
Show beta
βeta: WARNING - GEAR BETA FOLLOWS: Unsolicited gear beta is bad, but since the last guy broke his ankle... I was able to protect the traverse with an ok small cam in one of the handholds on the traverse (green alien?) and if there is no thread a yellow alien in the crack splitting the roof is bomber, as is a no. 2 red camalot in the big break above the roof. Nice route.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
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Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
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DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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Route of Interest

Dead Banana Crack

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)