This route looks okay until you abseil down it. It is only then that you realise how steep the wall is. Has been described as a F7a+ with one long and serious run-out. Start at a crunchy flake to the right of Mysteries. Climb the initial wall past flakes (very low thread) to the large break and huge thread runners. Take a deep breath and attack the wall above, moving right to a thin flakeline. Climb this in a position of increasing seriousness to hopefully gain another thread. Follow the easier flake to a break then step right and climb direct to the top. © Rockfax
FA. M.Owen, R.Bennion, J.Hewson 18/Apr/1990.
100 or so good E6s - aye Caff
The Best of Pembroke
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Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Mount Sion East)
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