UKC

42m.

Rockfax Description
This route looks okay until you abseil down it. It is only then that you realise how steep the wall is. Has been described as a F7a+ with one long and serious run-out. Start at a crunchy flake to the right of Mysteries. Climb the initial wall past flakes (very low thread) to the large break and huge thread runners. Take a deep breath and attack the wall above, moving right to a thin flakeline. Climb this in a position of increasing seriousness to hopefully gain another thread. Follow the easier flake to a break then step right and climb direct to the top. © Rockfax

FA. M.Owen, R.Bennion, J.Hewson 18/Apr/1990.

Ticklists

100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The Best of Pembroke , 101Pembroke Extremes , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke dreams

Feedback

User Date Notes
Emma Alsford 31 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Fabulous climbing! Hats off to those who on sight it.. scary!
Show beta
βeta: Fabulous climbing! Hats off to those who on sight it.. scary!
Paddy Buchan 29 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The side pull near the end of the run out might be worth an inspection, parts of it seemed to be flaking off whilst I was on the lead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The side pull near the end of the run out might be worth an inspection, parts of it seemed to be flaking off whilst I was on the lead.
UKC News 29 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 8 threads and a spicey runout. F7a+ climbing. E5?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 8 threads and a spicey runout. F7a+ climbing. E5?

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 22
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Big in America

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Bosherston Head)

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