Rockfax Description
This route looks okay until you abseil down it. It is only then that you realise how steep the wall is. Has been described as a F7a+ with one long and serious run-out. Start at a crunchy flake to the right of Mysteries. Climb the initial wall past flakes (very low thread) to the large break and huge thread runners. Take a deep breath and attack the wall above, moving right to a thin flakeline. Climb this in a position of increasing seriousness to hopefully gain another thread. Follow the easier flake to a break then step right and climb direct to the top. © Rockfax
FA. M.Owen, R.Bennion, J.Hewson 18/Apr/1990.
100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The Best of Pembroke , 101Pembroke Extremes , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke dreams
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Emma Alsford | 31 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Fabulous climbing! Hats off to those who on sight it.. scary! | ||
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βeta: Fabulous climbing! Hats off to those who on sight it.. scary! |
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Paddy Buchan | 29 May, 2022 |
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βeta: The side pull near the end of the run out might be worth an inspection, parts of it seemed to be flaking off whilst I was on the lead. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The side pull near the end of the run out might be worth an inspection, parts of it seemed to be flaking off whilst I was on the lead. |
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UKC News | 29 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: 8 threads and a spicey runout. F7a+ climbing. E5? | βeta? | |
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βeta: 8 threads and a spicey runout. F7a+ climbing. E5? |
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Mount Sion East)