Climbs 59
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces N

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Bristol beat 7a (2stars) - Taffs well west © jon clayton

Crag features

On the other side of the valley and well hidden from the main crag at Taff's Well is a series of old quarried walls that contain some good sport climbs. The style varies from slabs to slightly overhanging featured walls and all the routes are technical. Although most of the walls apart fro the slabs are enclosed and shady, the climbing is well-worth searching out in the right conditions.

Approach notes

As for Taffs Well (East) to the roundabout below that crag, then turn left to Radyr, then right at next roundabout. 0.5mi further on the left is a blocked quarry track. Park in small housing estate on the right (gwaelod-Y-Garth, Heol Berry).
Take faint path up through woods to a good track: follow to small pinnacle with crag behind. Best to get there early to avoid parking problems. This is due to the fact that people leave there vehicles there while they go off to work. Does get very busy!!!!!

Restricted Access

November 2017 update

Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.

The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site. 

2020 update

Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.

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