UKC

Climbs 21
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 436m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Putting in the last bolt with a spectacular backdrop. © Nicholas Wylie

Crag features

April 2021 update. Last of the expansion bolts have been placed with 'Richochet' being added alongside Dave MacLeod's new roof project. Low level Lower offs with rings have been added to the beginner slab for practicing/teaching re-threading. Around 10 climbs have been cleaned and are awaiting bolting with the new resin bolts soon. All existing routes have had screwgate/snap-gate chain lower-off added for ease of stripping. In-situ extender quickdraws have been added to the  'Normandy' traverse so no need to strip it. These will be removed at the end of summer. 

June 2020 update. 100 glue-in bolts and lower-offs arrived after spending the bolt fund. Will be placed when Covid restrictions are reduced.

A huge roof that overlooks the valley from the east face of Beinn an Lochain. Topped by a slab, from the roadside it resembles a old war 'bunker' built into the hill. 

Newly bolted in 2018 the crag currently only consists of six routes but has plenty of potential for closer to the twenty mark. With the large roof dominating the centre stage, this main spectacle holds several hard routes that tackle the steepness head-on. To the left, the steepness eases giving a few vert and slab walls which consist of routes that feel a little more familiar to the classic crimps and pocket schist climbs that other local crags are known for. Finally, To the right at the entrance to the crag there are several easy slabs. Currently only one route is bolted here but with short lengths (6-12m), friendly angles and good low-end grades possible, when more routes are set up this part of the crag will be a great area for the 5-6 grade climber and those taking their first steps into outdoor sport climbing. 

 

The views from the crag are spectacular but like any mountainous crag in scotland, midges can be a nuisance at times in the summer, so wrap-up, take repellent or pick a day with a breeze. Facing south-east the the crag catches the morning sun but shades over quickly due to the steepness of the roof. The roof protects the majority of the routes from the rain apart from in heavy downpours with a lot of wind, however several routes do have seepage so conditions are best found with one dry day beforehand. If climbing in the upper grades of the crag, there is almost always something dry to climb. 

Cleaning, preparing, bolting and equipping sport routes is hard work and requires a lot of time and effort. Not to mentions th expense that good quality, safe equipment costs. If you would like to donate to the bolting fund, please get in touch with Willis Morris who runs the account. Every little helps and any contribution will be used to help improve the crag and be very much appreciated by all. Thanks

Approach notes

Park in a layby on the west side of the A83 around two kilometres north of the Rest and Be Thankful summit. From here, a faint path leads to the stream just above the Easan Dubh falls; it is normally straightforward to get across. On the far side the path becomes very boggy for a short distance so boots or wellies will be much appreciated. This leads to the foot of the very obvious northeast ridge of Beinn an Lochain, just above the forestry. Continue up until the crag can be seen in the distance on the left of the ridge. Choosing the correct time to traverse left to the crag can be difficult for as you get close it becomes out of sight. A small cairn has been build just off the path to show the best time to turn left just above a steep rocky  section after the path flattens out briefly.

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