UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
The narrow wall is best taken to the right of the bolts. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Portland Unwishlist , Portland , Portland road to 7a

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User Date Notes
catt 17 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: follow the described line and this has some nice, hard moves. all 4 of us that climbed it reckoned it about 6b. good little route.
βeta?
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βeta: follow the described line and this has some nice, hard moves. all 4 of us that climbed it reckoned it about 6b. good little route.
Wilbur 30 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: so contrived and crap as a result. you can step out left and use good left arete holds but is that cheating? felt off-route to me but then you can still reach the bolts from their!!!
βeta?
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βeta: so contrived and crap as a result. you can step out left and use good left arete holds but is that cheating? felt off-route to me but then you can still reach the bolts from their!!!
richardr 22 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Crux move definately hard off that undercut. Took me a few falls before I figured it out. It is only hard for 2-3 moves though and right next to the bolt. I haven't a lot of sport experience but wouldn't that bring the grade down to F6a?
βeta?
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βeta: Crux move definately hard off that undercut. Took me a few falls before I figured it out. It is only hard for 2-3 moves though and right next to the bolt. I haven't a lot of sport experience but wouldn't that bring the grade down to F6a?
SC 16 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very tough for a 5+ but not sure if its quite 6b.
βeta?
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βeta: Very tough for a 5+ but not sure if its quite 6b.
Pete 15 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This is emphatically not 5+. Over the last five years or so I have done a good proportion of the climbs at Portland graded 6A - 6C and a few harder. I would, like some of the others that have commented, put it at good 6B. In fact I can remember several 6B+ climbs that I have found easier than this. Have to say though that it is a good climb, but someone got this badly wrong. Would say that the adjacent Sod is a bit out too, but not quite as much. Endorsed by the other three people that I climbed with last Sunday as well.
βeta?
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βeta: This is emphatically not 5+. Over the last five years or so I have done a good proportion of the climbs at Portland graded 6A - 6C and a few harder. I would, like some of the others that have commented, put it at good 6B. In fact I can remember several 6B+ climbs that I have found easier than this. Have to say though that it is a good climb, but someone got this badly wrong. Would say that the adjacent Sod is a bit out too, but not quite as much. Endorsed by the other three people that I climbed with last Sunday as well.
Adam Perrett 16 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I think that losing a hold has improved the climb as it is now a more dynamic climb past the 3rd bolt. Perhaps worth a single star(?)
βeta?
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βeta: I think that losing a hold has improved the climb as it is now a more dynamic climb past the 3rd bolt. Perhaps worth a single star(?)
TobyT 4 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Not 5+. Harder technically than other 6a's but short with closely spaced bolts. One move is particularly reachy and the short can add another grade.
βeta?
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βeta: Not 5+. Harder technically than other 6a's but short with closely spaced bolts. One move is particularly reachy and the short can add another grade.
John2 9 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: We felt that this one was more like 6A+ or 6B. To climb it directly required several moves of English 5C.
βeta?
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βeta: We felt that this one was more like 6A+ or 6B. To climb it directly required several moves of English 5C.

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Reptile Smile

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)

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