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UKClimbing Team

18m.

Rockfax Description
Very sustained and technical, especially on the crux. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 25/Feb/1995

Ticklists

The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
LukeWS 19 Mar Lead dog 1 fall at the end of crux - figured out all of the beta now!
with Sacha W
1 fall at the end of crux - figured out all of the beta now!
with Sacha W
LukeWS 14 Mar Lead dnf 14/03/20 - crux feels hard 16/03/20 - worked out most of beta now, feels like it is possible
with suddy
14/03/20 - crux feels hard 16/03/20 - worked out most of beta now, feels like it is possible
with suddy
James Leetch 23 Jan TR dog *realised there are two separate lines for the crux- will need to come back to check out the left hand way 24/01/20- Feeling solid. In 3-4 sections on TR. Definitely achievable soon with a bit of work. 23/01/20- Managed all the moves.. could be a bit pumpy though on the crux link
*realised there are two separate lines for the crux- will need to come back to check out the left hand way 24/01/20- Feeling solid. In 3-4 sections on TR. Definitely achievable soon with a bit of work. 23/01/20- Managed all the moves.. could be a bit pumpy though on the crux link
Hidden 19 Jan Lead RP
Hidden 18 Jan Lead dog
Cedric Monzali 9 Dec, 2019 Lead dog
Wayne.Gaudin u 17 Nov, 2019 Lead dog One fall, one move from easy ground. Clean through the crux to the top when I got back on. Really should go next session.
One fall, one move from easy ground. Clean through the crux to the top when I got back on. Really should go next session.
Lukechandler 17 Nov, 2019 Lead RP First 7c, sent second go. Felt easy for the grade but also suited my style
First 7c, sent second go. Felt easy for the grade but also suited my style
Wayne.Gaudin u 3 Nov, 2019 Lead dog Fell off the dropable move. Straight back on and went clean to the top. Just a matter of time now. Felt strong on every move.
with Jobbo
Fell off the dropable move. Straight back on and went clean to the top. Just a matter of time now. Felt strong on every move.
with Jobbo
Jobbo 19 Oct, 2019 Lead RP
Wayne.Gaudin u 19 Oct, 2019 Lead dog Should have gone today. Through the crux clean but tensed up and fell off a move I've never fallen off before. Next time!
Should have gone today. Through the crux clean but tensed up and fell off a move I've never fallen off before. Next time!
Wayne.Gaudin u 6 Oct, 2019 Lead dog Too hot for a good send attempt but changed foot position on crux moves means it is high percentage now. Should go next time.
with Jobbo
Too hot for a good send attempt but changed foot position on crux moves means it is high percentage now. Should go next time.
with Jobbo
Wayne.Gaudin u 4 Oct, 2019 Lead dog Bolt to bolt no falls. Fell at the first crux move on the attempt. When I eventually latch it, got to the top clean. Just about increasing percentage on that one move and it will go.
with Jobbo
Bolt to bolt no falls. Fell at the first crux move on the attempt. When I eventually latch it, got to the top clean. Just about increasing percentage on that one move and it will go.
with Jobbo
eddie "grunty" goodey 28 Sep, 2019 Lead dnf Trying the lower section
Trying the lower section
Wayne.Gaudin u 28 Sep, 2019 Lead dog First proper rp attempt. The move into the crux is low percentage for me but I feel it will go if I stick it. Clip halfway through upper sequence is ok, but a little sapping but tactical shaking can get enough back.
First proper rp attempt. The move into the crux is low percentage for me but I feel it will go if I stick it. Clip halfway through upper sequence is ok, but a little sapping but tactical shaking can get enough back.
Wayne.Gaudin u 22 Sep, 2019 Lead dog 2nd session. Simon unlocked the crux move and I worked a sequence above this. Can do in two sections. If I rest below the crux I can go clean to the top. Proper go next time.
with Jobbo
2nd session. Simon unlocked the crux move and I worked a sequence above this. Can do in two sections. If I rest below the crux I can go clean to the top. Proper go next time.
with Jobbo
Wayne.Gaudin u 6 Sep, 2019 Lead dog A couple of goes today to see if it's a suitable first 7c. The crux has multiple options. Found a way that suits me (hopefully). Rest of the route almost goes clean.
with Dave Moisley, Jobbo
A couple of goes today to see if it's a suitable first 7c. The crux has multiple options. Found a way that suits me (hopefully). Rest of the route almost goes clean.
with Dave Moisley, Jobbo
Jobbo 6 Sep, 2019 TR dog
with Dave, Wayne.Gaudin
with Dave, Wayne.Gaudin
elia4 23 Aug, 2019 -
F.Wish 13 Aug, 2019 Lead β
Hidden 12 Aug, 2019 Lead RP
Phillip Hoare 17 May, 2019 Lead
S.Kew 11 May, 2019 Lead dog
Matt Broadhurst 5 May, 2019 Lead Getting slightly better at the flash game. Got a bit unlucky reading a sequence. Good climbing ruined by the Chossy band. 2nd go.
Getting slightly better at the flash game. Got a bit unlucky reading a sequence. Good climbing ruined by the Chossy band. 2nd go.
Petethemeat 8 Apr, 2019 Lead RP Beta from YouTube, couldn't use any of it so spent an hour and a half figuring it out and then got it first redpoint. Found going up into the undercut and pulling through it so powerful, thank fuck I actually bouldered over the winter!
Beta from YouTube, couldn't use any of it so spent an hour and a half figuring it out and then got it first redpoint. Found going up into the undercut and pulling through it so powerful, thank fuck I actually bouldered over the winter!
afterthesend 15 Mar, 2019 Lead RP Went 1st go today putting the clips in
Went 1st go today putting the clips in
brian watson 9 Mar, 2019 Lead RP one go making refinements and putting clips in, 1st RP after. (no sneeking of for rests out left).
with john1
one go making refinements and putting clips in, 1st RP after. (no sneeking of for rests out left).
with john1
brian watson 7 Mar, 2019 Lead dog This will go, if i can hit the crimp first try. Went from start of crux to jugs on top wall in one go. Very pleased today. One refresh on TR and one lead attempt.
This will go, if i can hit the crimp first try. Went from start of crux to jugs on top wall in one go. Very pleased today. One refresh on TR and one lead attempt.
ThomasB 12 Jan, 2019 Lead RP
Sam Head 8 Nov, 2018 Lead
Graham Westbrook 8 Nov, 2018 Lead RP 1st RP. Sketchy finish! Really nice climbing
1st RP. Sketchy finish! Really nice climbing
Dandan 26 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 26 Oct, 2018 Lead rpt
Hidden 25 Oct, 2018 Lead dog
jjdaly 18 May, 2018 Lead RP
with tsyrett
with tsyrett
Hidden 13 May, 2018 Lead dog
ArrMcC 20 Apr, 2018 Lead RP 2nd go. Climbs better than it looks! Pretty techy and flows really well.
with Robin
2nd go. Climbs better than it looks! Pretty techy and flows really well.
with Robin
Hidden 1 Apr, 2018 TR dog
Hidden 9 Dec, 2017 TR dog
Ally Smith 9 Dec, 2017 Lead β Flashy on-sight. Seen photos of the crux using the undercut, and got reminded of how to do the start
with hms, AJM
Flashy on-sight. Seen photos of the crux using the undercut, and got reminded of how to do the start
with hms, AJM
Hidden 12 Sep, 2017 Lead RP
brian watson 10 Sep, 2017 Lead dog Better sequence (not as far left) it'll take a good bit of work to get a tick.
with Louis Boscence, Drew
Better sequence (not as far left) it'll take a good bit of work to get a tick.
with Louis Boscence, Drew
JKinsella 15 Aug, 2017 Lead RP Second go, PB for me! Nice route, enjoyable technical sequence. Soft at grade.
Second go, PB for me! Nice route, enjoyable technical sequence. Soft at grade.
Edward Kwong 6 Aug, 2017 Lead RP Great moves. Nearly got the flash, refined it a bit and sent without too much fuss 2nd go.
Great moves. Nearly got the flash, refined it a bit and sent without too much fuss 2nd go.
Matti Puckridge 6 Aug, 2017 Lead RP Stellar route. Great moves on good edges.
Stellar route. Great moves on good edges.
Hidden ? Aug, 2017 Lead
tsyrett 30 Jul, 2017 Lead RP finally got it on the second go today. Had to climb past the first small roof to clip from above to be able to finish it up without pumping out. Just great
finally got it on the second go today. Had to climb past the first small roof to clip from above to be able to finish it up without pumping out. Just great
Pete Scott 27 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
tsyrett 23 Jul, 2017 Lead dog 2 attempts on but got shut down by the weather
2 attempts on but got shut down by the weather
jakecollins 1 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Shane Willis 17 Jun, 2017 Lead RP A lovely route, good flowing moves, decent Crux, and a droppable finish.
A lovely route, good flowing moves, decent Crux, and a droppable finish.
Pete Scott 4 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf
with tsyrett
with tsyrett
tsyrett 21 May, 2017 Lead dog Lots of work on top rope and one lead attempt falling at the crux. Hopefully it will go on fresh arms
Lots of work on top rope and one lead attempt falling at the crux. Hopefully it will go on fresh arms
DorsetGareth 21 May, 2017 Lead dog Some great moves on this - didn't quite go today, but lead in two parts.
with tsyrett
Some great moves on this - didn't quite go today, but lead in two parts.
with tsyrett
tsyrett 14 May, 2017 TR dog
gem_stone12 ? May, 2017 Lead dog
RadekNowak 16 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Fantastic route! Mid-route crux flows really nicely once you got the beta. Very high clips so need a steady head for that. Went surprisingly quickly (over the weekend basically). Means its' a soft 7c?
with Adam Trinick, Miles
Fantastic route! Mid-route crux flows really nicely once you got the beta. Very high clips so need a steady head for that. Went surprisingly quickly (over the weekend basically). Means its' a soft 7c?
with Adam Trinick, Miles
samparsons 12 Apr, 2017 Lead RP First tried 4 Jan 2017
First tried 4 Jan 2017
Hidden 12 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt
Hidden 12 Apr, 2017 Lead dog
Patricia de Frutos 12 Mar, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 17 Feb, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 3 Jan, 2017 Lead RP
brian watson 2 Jan, 2017 TR dog Did all the moves with lots of rests, (think moves of ledge on left are off route, personally)
Did all the moves with lots of rests, (think moves of ledge on left are off route, personally)
Hidden 2 Jan, 2017 TR RP
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
Hidden 28 Dec, 2016 TR dog
Ben J 27 Dec, 2016 TR dnf
Hidden 22 Dec, 2016 TR dog
Hidden 4 Dec, 2016 TR dog
Hidden 13 Nov, 2016 Lead rpt
Ben J 11 Nov, 2016 TR dnf Pulled through a few sections, still felt do-able though! I think it'll be a nice little project for the winter
Pulled through a few sections, still felt do-able though! I think it'll be a nice little project for the winter
Hidden 11 Nov, 2016 TR dog
Robcook100 6 Nov, 2016 Lead G/U
Hidden 6 Nov, 2016 TR dog
Hidden 30 Oct, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 29 Oct, 2016 Lead dog
quiffhanger 18 Sep, 2016 Lead RP First RP. Fell off 1 move from the jug on the on-sight when I decided to start climbing down & right for a (non-existent rest) rather than up to a massive jug :(
with Rachel
First RP. Fell off 1 move from the jug on the on-sight when I decided to start climbing down & right for a (non-existent rest) rather than up to a massive jug :(
with Rachel
Hidden 11 Sep, 2016 TR
Marcus 11 Sep, 2016 Lead RP First redpoint today after putting the clips in. Very enjoyable climb with some really good moves and went very easily, which was nice. Then Rubben did it and then RockSteady did it. So a good time was had by all!
First redpoint today after putting the clips in. Very enjoyable climb with some really good moves and went very easily, which was nice. Then Rubben did it and then RockSteady did it. So a good time was had by all!
rubben 11 Sep, 2016 Lead RP 2nd Go - fluffed the onsight and pumped out a little. Didn't like it first time round, but actually climbs really well from top to bottom. Good climb!
with Marcus
2nd Go - fluffed the onsight and pumped out a little. Didn't like it first time round, but actually climbs really well from top to bottom. Good climb!
with Marcus
Hidden 20 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
Viki Claudia Harvey 15 May, 2016 Lead RP
with Ramon Marin
with Ramon Marin
Ramon Marin u 8 May, 2016 Lead rpt Training lap
with viki harvey
Training lap
with viki harvey
Hidden 6 May, 2016 Lead RP
Ramon Marin u 2 May, 2016 Lead rpt Run a lap to refine beta for Viki, great route
with viki harvey
Run a lap to refine beta for Viki, great route
with viki harvey
Ramon Marin u 1 May, 2016 Lead RP Fantastic! Done it today first go putting the clips in. 1 work session 2 weeks ago. Great to have it done the day after my first E6. Great little route
with viki harvey
Fantastic! Done it today first go putting the clips in. 1 work session 2 weeks ago. Great to have it done the day after my first E6. Great little route
with viki harvey
Hidden 30 Apr, 2016 Lead dog
Ramon Marin u 17 Apr, 2016 Lead dog Puzzled by the crux. Took ages to work out, by the time I had all sussed out I was goosed. Next time.
with viki harvey
Puzzled by the crux. Took ages to work out, by the time I had all sussed out I was goosed. Next time.
with viki harvey
Hidden 13 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
Ed Babs 28 Jan, 2016 Lead RP Powered by pea soup. + 15 January with AlexD and 16 January with Ellis. Much easier than Hall of Mirrors for me.
Powered by pea soup. + 15 January with AlexD and 16 January with Ellis. Much easier than Hall of Mirrors for me.
jacobjlloyd 16 Jan, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 16 Jan, 2016 Lead rpt
BenL 15 Nov, 2015 Lead RP
with Emma
with Emma
Hidden 10 Oct, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 26 Sep, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 26 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 19 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 12 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
pezzerrr 2 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
ChrisDavis 13 Jun, 2015 Lead β
with Ela
with Ela
Hidden 13 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 24 May, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 16 May, 2015 Lead RP
nimajneb ??, 2015 Lead RP
jacobjlloyd ??, 2015 TR dog got the right moves, after a few goes failing to use Ben's silly hard beta. Was a wuss. Should go next time. The rain probably didn't help, though it dampened my psyche more than the rock.
got the right moves, after a few goes failing to use Ben's silly hard beta. Was a wuss. Should go next time. The rain probably didn't help, though it dampened my psyche more than the rock.
Hidden 11 Jul, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 22 Mar, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 15 Mar, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 9 Mar, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 8 Mar, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 1 Dec, 2012 Lead dog
dan gibson 27 Sep, 2012 Lead RP the first portland 7c iv'e done in a day. Sketched up it.
with julie carroll, helen gibson
the first portland 7c iv'e done in a day. Sketched up it.
with julie carroll, helen gibson
3 Names 20 Sep, 2012 Lead RP put clips up then first red point
put clips up then first red point
Hidden 6 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
3 Names 6 Sep, 2012 Lead dog bolt to bolt to put draws in. Couple of working goes. Now linked all the moves and done in two halves.
bolt to bolt to put draws in. Couple of working goes. Now linked all the moves and done in two halves.
3 Names 2 Sep, 2012 TR dog couple of goes working moves
couple of goes working moves
Cyan 2 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 28 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
3 Names 25 Aug, 2012 TR dog
sam_cox 1 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 27 Feb, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 26 Feb, 2012 Lead RP
John Mcshea 26 Feb, 2012 Lead RP Some good climbing in the upper reaches, worthy of two portland stars.
Some good climbing in the upper reaches, worthy of two portland stars.
Toby Dunn 21 Jan, 2012 Lead RP Much better than it looks from the floor, suffers a little from a stretch of the usual easy Portland choss, but the crux to the top is all on good rock, and with some exciting moves between some surprisingly small holds!
with Lyndsay Hilton
Much better than it looks from the floor, suffers a little from a stretch of the usual easy Portland choss, but the crux to the top is all on good rock, and with some exciting moves between some surprisingly small holds!
with Lyndsay Hilton
Hidden 13 Jan, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 17 Dec, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 20 Nov, 2011 Lead dog
Rob Kennard 10 Nov, 2010 Lead
with Bob Hickish
with Bob Hickish
Marti999 u 4 Nov, 2010 Lead dog
with Harry Massey
with Harry Massey
schof 6 Oct, 2010 Lead RP alright for 7c, good climbing, bit shouldery
with steve howe
alright for 7c, good climbing, bit shouldery
with steve howe
Martin Krasnansky 14 Apr, 2008 Lead RP 2.try
2.try
bigie bob 20 Jan, 2007 Lead RP
19 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Seriously Slim Fast Motel

Grade: 7c ***
(Dancing Ledge)