UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
The wall right of the corner of La BĂȘte Noire is climbed on black holds to a move right that reaches a black seam and flake crack. Follow the rib above to the roof and pass it on the right to finish up easier ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Right hand side of In Extremis Buttress

Start in the gully right of La Bete Noire. Climb the wall on black curious holds until it is possible to step on to the arete. Arrange good gear in the vertical finger crack right of the arete and then make a long move to a good hold. Step up on the left of the arete. Make a series of thin moves rightwards with poor footholds and climb strenuously up into the niche directly above. Finish easily to a grassy platform. Tree belays well back.

James Mann Adrian Parsons 30/May/2014.

Ticklists

Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9

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User Date Notes
Rick Sewards 31 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The line and description in the Dartmoor guide are not quite right for the start - it starts on the wall above and right of La Bete Noire and climbs diagonally left to the arete before climbing the short thin crack (according to James, who ought to know being the first ascensionist!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The line and description in the Dartmoor guide are not quite right for the start - it starts on the wall above and right of La Bete Noire and climbs diagonally left to the arete before climbing the short thin crack (according to James, who ought to know being the first ascensionist!)

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dark Power

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Lundy)

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