UKC

Climbs 112
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 61m a.s.l
Faces N

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Location Location Location. © Jordan B

Crag features

The rocky hump of the Little Orme (Rhiwledyn) could be introduced as the smaller version of its relative across the bay: if comparing the number of recorded climbs this would be true, but if length, seriousness and magnificence are taken into account this sibling should be regarded as at least the equal but distinctly different - the quiet brooding one.

The size and extent of the walls are indeed very striking but when coupled with the difficulty of reaching the base of many of the routes you have a crag which contrasts even more starkly with its better known neighbour. There’s no belaying from the car here; it’s more about carefully timed tidal approaches, complex abseils, hanging stances above the sea and special pre-preparation of escape routes. Of course all this effort does have its rewards. The routes are wild, exposed and in the most splendid of situations. There are few places in the country where you can delight in sport routes of the quality of Ocean of Emotion, Long Ago and Far Away and Wall of Evening Light, which require a degree of commitment more usually associated with the Main Cliff at Gogarth than with bolt clipping.

Approach notes

The conveniently situated Craigside Inn on the B5115 has a large overflow car park, however permission to use this has neither been granted or sought: perhaps a post-climb drink would be in order?

The approaches for most of the Little Orme Crags are long and complex. You should only attempt them armed with the best information in the guidebook.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal restrictions apply to all routes during the nesting period for nesting Razorbills, Guillemots, Cormorants and Kittiwakes.

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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
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