UKC

22m. Start left of Barney Rubble, make some hard moves up and right to join the jugs above the small overhang, make some balancey moves up to reach the crack of Boogie on Down, a few hard moves go direct up from here via a hidden hold to the rest of Bedrock. Continue straight up keeping on the left side of the rib. Finishing for Bedrock reduces the grade to 7a+.

Nick White, Jon Gandy 18/Apr/1991.

Ticklists

Torbryan Quarry , Torbryan Completionists

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User Date Notes
Martgib 19 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There seems to be two ways of doing the bottom section. Do the lunge move after the first bolt, then clip the second independent bolt (high left), continue up Barney Rubble for a few moves, step right into the crack of Boogie on down and then up OR do the lunge move after the first bolt, then MISS the second independent bolt, and clip the second bolt or Barney Rubble. Immediately climb right / up to lower in the Boogie crack and then straight up past the peg. This way has more independent climbing and makes the route feel like it's own line proper, but is odd as it skips the (presumably Bambam's) bolt, and a tad runout... Does it really matter? No... but may help someone hoping to RP this.
Show beta
βeta: There seems to be two ways of doing the bottom section. Do the lunge move after the first bolt, then clip the second independent bolt (high left), continue up Barney Rubble for a few moves, step right into the crack of Boogie on down and then up OR do the lunge move after the first bolt, then MISS the second independent bolt, and clip the second bolt or Barney Rubble. Immediately climb right / up to lower in the Boogie crack and then straight up past the peg. This way has more independent climbing and makes the route feel like it's own line proper, but is odd as it skips the (presumably Bambam's) bolt, and a tad runout... Does it really matter? No... but may help someone hoping to RP this.
Dale Turrell 17 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A popular finish with more independent climbing seems to be: From the thin pocket on Bedrock move straight up avoiding moving around the arete. Join BR at the finishing jugs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A popular finish with more independent climbing seems to be: From the thin pocket on Bedrock move straight up avoiding moving around the arete. Join BR at the finishing jugs.

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bronski Beat

Grade: 7b S1 ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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