Locally known as The Boulder, this small crag provides good bouldering and some short routes up to 10m on excellent quartz studded and pocketed mica-schist.
2020- A decent amount of brushing and cleaning has been carried out but lots more work requiered if the whole crag is to be opened up.
2023- some additional cleaning carried out but lots of work to do for the crag to reach its potential.
There is limited protection and many routes have not been led; they are given technical grades only. This crag would benifit from bolting for more regular use although a top-rope can be set up from various trees.
Worth taking the grading here with a grain of salt.
From left to right, the routes are: Left-Hand Crack 4b; Magic Fingers 5b; Harry the Bastard's Coming Out Party 5a; A Bit Thin E1 5c; The Bulge 6b; No Brain No Pain 5b; Electric City Blues VS 5a and Diagonal Crack VS 4c.
Above/behind the main crag is a small bouldering wall which offers good short routes and a long traverse in a pleasant location.
Directions: From the centre of Kinlochleven, turn up a road signposted to Grey Mare’s Tale waterfall. The turning is at the doctors’ surgery. Turn right towards the Grey Mare’s Tale car park but continue past it to the end of the road and a small parking place beside a shed (NN 1917 6186). Approach: Walk up a path which is a continuation of the road until it splits into three. One path goes alongside the river and one goes directly away. Take a middle one which goes diagonally uphill (past the hydro station), then goes parallel but well above the river(Ceiran path). After about 5mins at the top of the first small climb, a crag is seen on the left through the trees some 100m above the path. It isn’t very obvious in summer but can still be seen. Head direct, 2mins.