One of the classic multi-pitch sport routes of the Dolomites. The crux pitch can be overcome with some easy aid climbing if necessary, at 6b A0 reducing the overall grade to 6c.
Start 35m uphill of Oltre la porta, 15m before you go around the corner of the right-hand arete. The route is usually marked with a cairn. The first bolt (about 10m up) is hard to spot.
1) 6a, 2) 5a, 3) 6a, 4) 6b+, 5) 4a, 6) 6b, 7) 7a+ or 6b A0
8) 6a+, 9) 6a+, 10) 6c, 11) 6a+. © Rockfax
F. Piardi, F. Tremolada, C. Zampieri 1997.
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