Rockfax Description
II, 350m. A classic Chamonix 'goulotte' where good conditions are rare but acceptable conditions can often be found. The route has bolted belays.
1) I, 50m. Climb the snow slope and belay on blocks on the left, below the first difficulties.
2) 3, 30m. Climb the icy mixed step, the difficulty of which is directly related to the quantity and quality of ice it holds. In good conditions it should be straightforward and leads to a bolt belay on the left of the gully.
3) 4+, 50m. Step right and climb the steep ice above which can sometimes be thin and somewhat disconcerting, it is also climbable dry at a similar grade.
4) 4, 60m. Climb the snow slope and through a short steepening on the right to a belay below a large chockstone.
5) 5, 40m. If the ice is there, climb to the right of the chockstone and then trend back left to a bolted belay at the bottom of the snow slope. If dry, it can be better heading to the left of the chockstone at a similar grade.
6) 2, 45m. Follow the snow couloir to a belay on the right near where the couloir splits.
7) 3, 45m. Keep following the left hand branch of the couloir, passing a 10m steeper section to a belay above and left.
8) 3, 45m. Keep following the snowy couloir above to the ridge crest on the left, passing some easy mixed ground.
9) Either abseil from here or continue up the blocky ground to reach the top of the Tour Ronde North Face.
Descent - Reverse the Southeast Ridge (p.282) or abseil down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
New alpine grade: II 4 (80° ice crux). Ice climb made more interesting when in mixed conditions

Robert Mazars & Gaston Rebuffat 31/Jul/1967.


Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter , Big Routes


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Grade: TD 6a+ ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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